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Meet the Maker: Robert Ruck

Meet the Maker: Robert Ruck

by Jonathon Peterson

Originally published in American Lutherie #93, 2008



Robert Ruck was one of the very first members of the Guild, and one of a handful of luthiers who attended our first convention in 1974. His passion for the music and culture of the guitar, his respect for its history, his hard work and dedication, and his prolific output have put him at the very top of his craft. I met him at our 1992 convention in South Dakota, where he spoke in detail about his building methods at that time (see AL#42 and BRBAL4). Fourteen years later, during the 2006 GAL Convention, we sat down over dinner and had this talk.


Before we get to guitar making, I want to find out what influences first turned you to the light side, the creative side.

As far as being exposed to anything artistic, my dad had a major influence in my life for sure.

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Pearly Shells and Nichols

Pearly Shells and Nichols

by David Nichols

from his 1984 GAL Convention lecture

Originally published in American Lutherie #1, 1985 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie, Volume One, 2000



My shop recently did two guitars for the Martin Company which are elaborate enough that they encompass basically all the different techniques used in pearl inlay. We inlaid the tortoise shell pickguards, the rosewood headstocks, ebony fingerboards, and all edgebinding. I photographed many steps in this process, and we can look at these as examples.

Here’s a picture of where I’m going to cut the pearl and do the inlay work (Photo 1). I have taken an extra liberty with our cutting board, drilling a series of holes in the back where I can stand all the little Dremel attachments that I’m going to need. When we cut pearl, it is either filed, or ground with the Dremel to an exacting contour after we saw it. It gives you a much better looking job if you touch up the sawn edges of the pieces before you put them in.

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Questions: Gluing in India

Questions: Gluing in India

by Dale Zimmerman

Originally published in American Lutherie #103, 2010

 

George Mathai from Kerala, India asks:

My friend is a luthier based in the southern state of India, Kerala. For gluing the various parts and braces for his guitars and violins he uses Franklin Titebond glue and Behlen ground hide glue. However, in one of his custom-made flamenco guitars, a rattling sound brought the guitar back to the shop. One of the right fan braces had come off a bit and this was causing the rattling. For that guitar he had used the hide glue to glue the braces on. Kerala is well within the humid equatorial tropics and perhaps the humidity affected the gluing. What is the best glue that can be used to withstand high humidity?


Dale Zimmerman from Franklin International in Columbus, Ohio
responds:

Hide glues such as our ready-to-use Titebond Liquid Hide Glue and most hot-pot hide glues are, and remain, quite sensitive to moisture. That affinity for moisture means that they tend to absorb water when exposed to high humidity or damp conditions, and that increase in moisture causes them to swell and weaken. Bonds that are not subject to stress may show little effect, as the glue loses that moisture and regains its strength as it returns to its original dry state. Where the bond is under stress, however, that stress is likely to cause some opening of the joint while the glue is softened. Ultimately then, the amount of change in a bond over time will be influenced by the concentration and duration of the moisture to which it is exposed and the stress, both inherent in the bond and that created as the wood involved changes in dimension in response to those changes in moisture content.

That means that hide glues are generally considered a poor choice for bonds that are likely to be exposed to particularly humid conditions, especially those that are expected to be under meaningful stress. For such situations, yellow glues, which show little effect from dampness or elevated humidity are a decidedly better choice. ◆

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It Worked for Me: Low Cost Emergency Lathe

It Worked for Me: Low Cost Emergency Lathe

by Gerhart Schmeltekopf

Originally published in American Lutherie #29, 1992 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume Three, 2004



Most luthiers probably don’t have wood lathes, so I submit this low-cost, emergency lathe setup for the times you might want to make a music stand, washtub bass, or baseball bat for the local luthiers’ picnic.

I bought commercial turnings to make a student harpsichord stand. They were “sanded and ready to finish,” so I knew that they would need to be sanded before finishing. They are too long for my lathe, so I rigged this temporary reciprocating or “pole” lathe to spin them and sand them.

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Nuts and Bolts for Bridge Gluing

Nuts and Bolts for Bridge Gluing

by Tim Olsen

Originally published in Guild of American Luthiers Data Sheet #126, 1979 and Lutherie Woods and Steel String Guitars, 1998

 

The holes of a pin-style bridge provide a golden opportunity to apply some very convincing clamping pressure. I use 3 10×32 1" round-head bolts with washers, wing nuts, and pieces of drilled shoe sole leather to temporarily bolt the bridge on while gluing.

This not only exerts a strong pressure to the back edge of the bridge, but the bolts ensure an accurate alignment of the bridge. All that remains is to set a deep-throated cam clamp on each end of the bridge. The leather washers will take up any slop that the bridge might have. This is a natural for repair work as well as construction. ◆