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Half-and-Half Tops

Half-and-Half Tops

by Harry Fleishman

Originally published in Lutherie Woods and Steel String Guitars, 1997



About five years ago I made a significant change in the way I make my guitars. For twenty years, or so, I had used Sitka spruce exclusively for both classical and steel-string instruments. I had good supply of nice wood and had become accustomed to the tone of the guitars I made with it. After reading several articles about makers using cedar and even redwood for their tops, with their glowing reports of quick response and interesting tone, I decided to try and experiment of my own.

I built two instruments as identical as I could, using the same rosewood for the sides and back, as well as bracewood and neck material, respectively, from the same boards. When the guitars were strung and played in a bit, it was instantly noticeable that the redwood guitar had a warmer, more intimate, darker tone that was both inviting and extremely pleasing. The spruce, by contrast was sharper, brighter, and more clear in its upper partials, and had better projection. It lacked the warmth, but excelled in volume. Each guitar was missing what the other possessed.

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Selecting Guitar Wood Based on Material Properties, Part One

Selecting Guitar Wood Based on Material Properties, Part One

by Trevor Gore

Originally published in American Lutherie #118, 2014

see also,
Selecting Guitar Wood Based on Material Properties, Part Two by Trevor Gore



In 1993, Bob Benedetto built an archtop guitar from construction-grade knotty pine with a back of weather-checked maple. In 1995, Bob Taylor used top wood cut from a 2×4 (“pine, fir, or hemlock”) and back wood from an oak pallet salvaged from a dumpster to build a guitar. Roger Bucknall (Fylde Guitars) routinely uses top wood of Oregon pine from distillery washback vessels and back and side wood salvaged from oak whisky casks for his “single malt” guitars. C.F. Martin & Company builds guitars with backs and sides made from high-pressure laminates with composite fretboards, materials of a type more commonly found surfacing kitchen workbenches. On its website, Martin claims that its wood-topped HPL guitars have the “sound of a highly collectible Martin,” presumably invoking comparisons to red spruce/rosewood instruments. The claims made by these makers for the sound of such instruments make the point that building a good guitar depends more on the skill of the luthier than on the quality of the materials that are used.

In 1862, the great Antonio de Torres proved his point by building a guitar with papier-mâché back and sides so, as one legend goes, to demonstrate the primacy of the soundboard in guitar construction. I, too, have built a guitar using reclaimed wood from a building renovation. It had a five-piece radiata pine top and meranti back and sides. It sounds better than the majority of guitars that you can buy in a main-street store.

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Selecting Guitar Wood Based on Material Properties, Part Two

Selecting Guitar Wood Based on Material Properties, Part Two

by Trevor Gore

Originally published in American Lutherie #119, 2014

see also,
Selecting Guitar Wood Based on Material Properties, Part One by Trevor Gore



Braces in a guitar serve two main purposes: to limit the soundboard’s deflection due to the bending moment applied by the static string loads, and to control how the soundboard subdivides into separate vibrating areas. How the second matter is handled is arbitrary, depending on the acoustical preferences of the builder, but the first matter is nonnegotiable if the instrument is to survive the applied string loads. So our concern here is principally with the first matter.

Spruce has been the wood of choice for guitar braces for over a hundred years and a relatively simple analysis will demonstrate why this is the case. To illustrate the point, a possible alternative wood, in this case western red cedar, has been chosen for comparative purposes. The significant material properties are tabulated below (Table 1), these values being for specific samples that I tested.

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Torres Guitar Restoration

Torres Guitar Restoration

by R.E. Bruné

Originally published in American Lutherie #33, 1993 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie, Volume Three, 2004



In March of 1986 I received in my workshop an 11-string guitar by Antonio Torres made in Almeria in 1884, and numbered #71. This instrument being perhaps unique in the world today for Torres’ work, it was imperative that it be adequately documented and ideally, restored as close as possible to original playing condition. The owner was quite anxious to pursue this course also, with the ultimate goal of selling it on the open market.

Surviving guitars by Torres are quite rare, being limited to fewer than seventy known instruments, and this example is perhaps the only 11-string example remaining, although Prat alludes to two others in his Diccionario under the listing for Torres. It is not clear whether he is referring to the same instrument owned by several different people or different instruments owned by different people. Although Torres numbered his instruments made from 1880 until he died in 1892, apparently there is no surviving record of the details of each instrument nor who the original owners were. (Editor’s Note: After this article was written, José Romanillos published his excellent book, Antonio de Torres, Guitar Maker — His Life and Work. In it he presents photos, drawings, and descriptions of another surviving Torres 11-string, #83. Author Bruné urges all to acquire and study this book.)

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It Worked for Me: Curly Koa Sides

It Worked for Me: Curly Koa Sides

by C.F. Casey

Originally published in American Lutherie #114, 2013



Recently I was faced with the gnarliest set of curly koa sides I’ve ever worked with. I was building a custom tenor ukulele, and the client had personally selected the woods. After thinning the sides, I gently flexed one to check its stiffness, and the darn thing broke!

I was able to glue it back together, but I was sure that in the bending process the glue would soften and it would fall apart again. So I installed another clamp bar on my bending form, just at the point of the break, clamped the sides down securely at that point, and proceeded to bend outwards in both directions (Photo 1).

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