Posted on May 22, 2026May 22, 2026 by Dale Phillips Peg Shapers That You Can Adjust Peg Shapers That You Can Adjust by David Golber Originally published in American Lutherie #96, 2008 There are two meanings of the word “adjustable.” One is that you loosen some screws, and some part becomes moveable. Then, if you have superhuman fineness of hand and eye, you can put that part in exactly the right place, and then tighten the screws — hoping that tightening the screws won’t move the part out of place again! The other meaning of “adjustable” is that ordinary human beings can get the part into the right place. Photo 1 shows the usual kind of peg shaper on the right. You loosen the screws that hold a blade and then somehow get the blade to exactly the right spot. Some people use these; they don’t work for me. On the left is one of my peg shapers. The crucial difference is the adjusting nuts, which allow mere mortals to actually adjust the thing. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of the Articles Online featured on our website for Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. For details, visit the membership page. MEMBERS: login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on May 7, 2026May 11, 2026 by Dale Phillips Traditional Lutherie Techniques for Violin and Guitar Making Traditional Lutherie Techniques for Violin and Guitar Making by Charles Rufino and Stephen Marchione from their 2014 GAL Convention workshop Originally published in American Lutherie #127, 2016 Charles: Necks are where the musician interacts with the instrument, and they have to be absolutely right. A musician brought me a cello with a neck so warped that the high action rendered the instrument unplayable. They had taken it to a well-respected shop in New York. They said, “We just had it fixed, and it’s acting up again.” So I took the fingerboard off and planed the neck, which had a very convex shape. When I applied glue, something told me to check it with a straightedge, and the convex shape was back. Improvising, I grabbed a very flat reference board, just a 2˝×4˝ that I keep planed up very flat, put a couple of pieces of paper in the center of the length to force it into a concave shape, and clamped it up. Later I observed the grain of the neck was straight until 3˝ from the bottom end, where 5MM down from the gluing surface it shot up at a 45° angle. It changed direction remarkably. The next day I realized that this process of sizing the neck and holding it until it took a proper shape might be a simple solution. When I glued it again, I found that it held its shape. The customer was in again a year later, and the neck was still fine. That made perfect sense because hide glue is mostly water, and as it penetrates, the wood reacts and changes shape. By sizing and drying the neck in a controlled shape, I can get it to hold that shape after the sizing glue dries. Later the glue for assembling the joint will penetrate only until it hits that sizing; the shape will not change in gluing, and it’s very stable. I now do this to all my instruments and prefer it to using carbon-fiber rods, which I think make a neck too strong. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of the Articles Online featured on our website for Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. For details, visit the membership page. MEMBERS: login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on February 19, 2026February 19, 2026 by Dale Phillips Measuring Archtop Musical Instruments Measuring Archtop Musical Instruments by Chris Burt Originally published in American Lutherie #83, 2005 See also, Arched Plate Carving, Part One by Chris Burt Arched Plate Carving, Part Two by Chris Burt Arched Plate Carving, Part Three by Chris Burt This is the first of three articles that take you from the basics of creating your own database of musical instrument measurements to applying what you have learned from those measured instruments while you carve top and back plates. In this article, you will learn to safely measure fine instruments. Article Two will describe plate carving, and article Three will describe plate graduating. This article is dedicated to Bob Lundberg, from whom I first learned the basics of measuring instruments. He showed us how to set the bar high. — Chris Burt Before you can build an archtop instrument based on an existing model, you need templates — at a minimum: a body-shape template, neck cross-section templates, and plate arching templates. You can’t carve something if you don’t understand it. If you are going to spend the considerable time that’s required to understand an instrument model, seek out the best. Measure several and keep detailed notes. If you take the time to compile a set of measuring tools and learn to use them respectfully and gently, you’ll be surprised to find how many people will allow you access to their fine instruments. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of the Articles Online featured on our website for Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. For details, visit the membership page. MEMBERS: login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on February 19, 2026February 19, 2026 by Dale Phillips Arched Plate Carving, Part One: Establishing the Outside Surface Arched Plate Carving, Part One: Establishing the Outside Surface by Chris Burt Originally published in American Lutherie #84, 2005 See also, Measuring Archtop Musical Instruments by Chris Burt Arched Plate Carving, Part Two by Chris Burt Arched Plate Carving, Part Three by Chris Burt This is the second of a series of articles that take you from the basics of creating your own database of instrument measurements to applying what you have learned from those measured instruments while you carve top and back plates. The first article of the series appeared in AL#83. In this article, you will learn how to carve top and back plates. The remainder of the series will describe plate graduating. A classical guitar maker I know recently told me he began his career making carved-plate guitars, but his finished top and back plates always looked like folk art. Our conversation got me thinking about his experience and the causes of unwitting folk art. I don’t know the process he followed and so can’t comment on it, but I do remember a fiddle player who asked me for advice as he built a fiddle. His finished fiddle looked like folk art, the main reason being that he didn’t have a process. At least, he didn’t quite believe, or understand, the process he read about or the clarifications I advised. I remember telling him, more than once, that he’d not yet finished one step and so shouldn’t start the next. Inevitably, the next time I’d see his work, he’d let impatience push him into abandoning the incomplete step in favor of the illusion of progress provided by beginning a new step. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of the Articles Online featured on our website for Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. For details, visit the membership page. MEMBERS: login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on February 19, 2026February 19, 2026 by Dale Phillips Arched Plate Carving, Part Two: Graduating the Top Plate and Cutting the f-Holes Arched Plate Carving, Part Two: Graduating the Top Plate and Cutting the f-Holes by Chris Burt Originally published in American Lutherie #85, 2006 See also, Measuring Archtop Musical Instruments by Chris Burt Arched Plate Carving, Part One by Chris Burt Arched Plate Carving, Part Three by Chris Burt This is the third article in this series, which takes you from measuring worthy instruments to carving plates in the image of the instruments of your dreams. To date you’ve measured one or more fine instruments and have carved a couple of plates that require final graduation. The thickness maps you’ve recorded when measuring instruments will tell you nothing about tap tones, but they will provide a view into at least one graduation scheme that works and a general goal towards which to work. So, how do you decide when you’ve finished graduating a plate? I can only describe my method. But heck, it’s a method based on both tradition and science. Some prefer tradition, some prefer science, some follow their imagination. I like the first two with a little of the third thrown in for fun. The techniques I describe in this article are based on more than faith. I learned them from teachers more knowledgeable than I. I also learned them through study, insight, and refinement gained through practice. Also, I once deviated from these techniques to build a viola graduated strictly by thickness. The wood I used turned out to be less stiff than any I’d previously used. The resulting plates were not stiff enough. The mode 2 tap tone for the top was down around C and C♯. I didn’t like the viola’s sound and never tried to sell it. I should have kept the plates thicker. I’ve since accepted that each piece of wood is unique and varies from other pieces in both density and stiffness. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of the Articles Online featured on our website for Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. For details, visit the membership page. MEMBERS: login for access or contact us to setup your account.
