Posted on January 19, 2010September 15, 2025 by Dale Phillips Questions: Hammered Dulcimer Questions: Hammered Dulcimer by John Calkin Originally published in American Lutherie #81, 2005 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume Seven, 2015 Gerald E. King from Conifer, Colorado asks: I am gathering material to construct a hammered dulcimer using GAL Instrument Plan #39. According to the plan’s creators Suran and Robison, the soundboard should be 1/4" thick, quartersawn mahogany. I have contacted several suppliers with no luck. Is this an unusually thick soundboard requirement? Is it an error in the plans? John Calkin from Greenville, Virginia replies: Hammered dulcimers have lots of string tension that would like to fold the instrument in half. A top as thick as 1/4" is necessary to help take the strain. Just about all my dulcimers had the top glued to the frame, and any weakness in the bracing of the top (or anywhere else) often led to distortions of the top that were seldom lethal but always ugly. There’s a construction method that uses a floating top of thinner material, but it has many more internal braces and is much more complicated to build. I’ve never made one. There’s so much tension on a dulcimer that even a thick top rings like a bell. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of the Articles Online featured on our website for Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. For details, visit the membership page. MEMBERS: login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on January 19, 2010September 11, 2025 by Dale Phillips Questions: Choosing Top Wood Questions: Choosing Top Wood by John Calkin Originally published in American Lutherie #84, 2005 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume Seven, 2015 Jerry Tekell of Italy, Texas asks: As a person somewhat new to instrument building I’d like to ask: Why do most builders use spruce or pine for guitar and mandolin tops? Why not maple, for example? I’d love to use maple on the top as well as the back of my mandolins, but I wonder how it would sound. John Calkin, GAL Contributing Editor, responds: Softwoods (conifers) are traditional for instrument tops, which also makes them what customers expect to see. Don’t neglect the importance of this. There are real-world reasons, though, as well. A wood needs to be strong enough to withstand the forces of string tension and compression (if you are talking about an archtop mandolin) and also light enough to be set in motion effectively by string vibration. Quartersawn softwoods seem to fit the bill better than the wood from deciduous trees. I tend to think of softwoods as fluffy, since they have a lot of air trapped in their structures. Hardwoods like hard maple are more like a metal (in my mind, not in reality) since they are very dense. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of the Articles Online featured on our website for Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. For details, visit the membership page. MEMBERS: login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on January 2, 2010May 23, 2025 by Dale Phillips Curing and Grading Lutherie Lumber Curing and Grading Lutherie Lumber by Bruce Creps previously published in American Lutherie #92, 2007 See also, “Resawing Lutherie Wood” by Bruce Creps “Sharpening the Stellite Teeth on the 3" Hitachi Blade” by Bruce Creps At a GAL Convention several years back a well-known luthier and lecturer stated that the best way to be assured a supply of properly processed tonewood was to harvest and air dry it yourself. He posited that due to turnaround and financial considerations most tonewood suppliers rush their kiln schedule and compromise the quality of the wood. For me, the wisdom of his statements was in stressing the importance of proper drying. I don’t know if the percentage of kiln-dried instrument-grade wood damaged or compromised due to improper drying is higher than the corresponding air-dried percentage. I do know that it is very easy to damage wood when air drying it. You don’t have to do anything. Neglect it and you can expect degrade: end checks, surface checks, warping, case-hardening, rot pockets, fungal stain and decay, and/or insect infestation. Improperly kiln-dried wood can exhibit checking, warping, and case-hardening. However, with kiln drying the fungi and pests in the wood will be killed, and colors can be clearer. The obvious disadvantages of kiln drying are that you need space and funds for a kiln, and you use lots of energy (unless you have a solar kiln). Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of our premium web content offered to Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 4 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. If you are already a member, login for access or contact us to setup your account.
