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Making a Gothic Harp

Making a Gothic Harp

by Shaun Newman

Originally published in American Lutherie #103, 2010



When my daughter asked me to build a harp, “the sort that angels play,” how could I resist? As a maker of guitars, I knew little of the Gothic or Renaissance harp, but became fascinated as I learned more. The original would have had a soundbox hollowed from a tree trunk, two sides of solid wood, and gut strings — simple but practical. These harps were common in 12th-century Europe onward, but sadly, no original instruments survive.

My first task was to find a drawing of the proper size. Mine came from Luthiers’ Supplies, an English firm, and though it provided a guide for construction, it contained critical errors that forced me to remake my first effort. It is not difficult to design your own, but beware of making the top string too short; if you keep that string at least 5 1/2" long, all should go well. Gothic harps can have sixteen to thirty-two strings, with an appropriately sized frame. The one I built, shown in Photo 1, is 32" tall with twenty-six strings. A larger harp is more versatile, but less portable and more costly. Since the instrument is not chromatic and many of the strings are used as drones, much of the upper range is seldom used; some players prefer no more than nineteen strings.

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Questions: Charango Plans

Questions: Charango Plans

by C.F. Casey

Originally published in American Lutherie #104, 2010

 

Gerald Mercer from Angels Camp, California asks:

I am looking for plans for a South American charango. These are often 10-string, 5-course instruments and made using the shells of armadillos.


C.F. Casey from Winnipeg Beach, Canada
answers:

The website below will get you going on building a charango. The title calls it a ronroco, but it’s the same thing. They even use the two terms interchangeably in the site.

http://jlfeijooi.en.eresmas.com/Construccion_de_un_ronroco.htm

Here we’re dealing with a charango that’s carved out of solid wood, rather than using an armadillo shell for the bowl. Most charangos I’ve seen lately have been the carved variety, and the last few times I’ve visited my friendly neighborhood wood-pusher, they’ve been fresh out of armadillos. The site is in Spanish, but Google’s translation is no more horrible than such things usually are. In any case, the sketches have the main dimensions, which is the most important thing. ◆

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Questions: Martin Style 5-18

Questions: Martin Style 5-18

by R.J. Klimpert

Originally published in American Lutherie #103, 2010

 

Larry Crozier from the Internet asks:

A customer wants a Martin-style 5-18 guitar built. I was wondering if GAL Plan #8 for the Martin 1-18 is the same or close enough. If not, could you recommend somewhere to get a 5-18 plan?


R.J. Klimpert of Barrington, Rhode Island
responds:

The chief reason that the 1-18 pattern won’t work to build a 5-18 is that the Martin 5-18 is a “terz” guitar, meaning that the neck and scale length are considerably shorter than that of a regular Martin, allowing for the higher-than-standard tuning that terz guitars are known for. The 1-18’s body, while narrow and seemingly similar in size to a 5-18, is too long to allow for a terz short-scale neck. The 5-18 is actually closer to a Martin Style 51 baritone uke in body size and scale. In fact, Martin reportedly reused an old terz guitar pattern when they started producing the 10-string tiple in the late ’teens. As for finding a pattern that would work for building a 5-18, it might be possible to reduce the dimensions of a 000-18 — all except the width of the neck — to approximate the correct size and shape. Or conversely, scale UP the dimensions of a Martin tiple (GAL Plan #37), since the 5-18 terz guitar lies somewhere between the two. ◆

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Questions: J-45 Body

Questions: J-45 Body

by Joe Veillette

Originally published in American Lutherie #102, 2010



David Brooks from Tucson, Arizona asks:

I want to build a 12-string guitar based on a J-45 body or similar. What changes to the 6-string version of the J-45 do I need to make to handle the additional tension?


Joe Veillette from Woodstock, New York responds:

In my experience there are two ways to go. If your idea of a 12-string is what most people are used to (25"–25 5/8" scale), I feel that all you have to do is add about 10% to the cross-sectional dimensions of what you’d use for normal 6-string top bracing. The top thickness as well as the back and sides can remain unchanged. This “normal” 12-string should be tuned down a step to D (many old Guilds came that way), or strung with extra-light strings due to the high tension of the octave strings which otherwise tend to be harder to play, more finicky in terms of intonation, and can often deform the top. Of course this isn’t always the case, but it’s close. In my opinion, both detuning and the use of really light strings are unfortunate compromises. But some people prefer the lower tuning and there’s nothing wrong with it if that’s what you like.

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Questions: Mystery Guitar

Questions: Mystery Guitar

by James Buckland

Originally published in American Lutherie #102, 2010



Joël Dugot of Musée de la Musique in Paris, France asks:

Our museum has received as a gift what seems to me to be an American guitar from the end of the 19th century. As there is no label nor any mark on it (except on the tuning machines: “G.EON”) my problem is to correctly identify this instrument. The body is made of nice quality Brazilian rosewood; the neck and V-jointed peghead are covered by a thick and hard black varnish. String length is 62CM, body widths are 28.8CM/17CM/21CM, and body depth is 8.5CM/7.5CM.


James Buckland from Clinton, South Carolina replies:

I’m a bit surprised to see this guitar in Paris. It looks like a mass produced “workshop” guitar, but is not in the French style, so I would rule out Mirecourt as its place of origin. To me it appears more Germanic and may have been built in Markneukirchen, Saxony, a town known for its music instrument production, much of which was for export. I’ve seen many similar instruments in the USA and Canada, and would date it middle or late 19th century, perhaps early 20th century.

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