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Traditional Lutherie Techniques for Violin and Guitar Making

Traditional Lutherie Techniques for Violin and Guitar Making

by Charles Rufino and Stephen Marchione

from their 2014 GAL Convention workshop

Originally published in American Lutherie #127, 2016



Charles: Necks are where the musician interacts with the instrument, and they have to be absolutely right. A musician brought me a cello with a neck so warped that the high action rendered the instrument unplayable. They had taken it to a well-respected shop in New York. They said, “We just had it fixed, and it’s acting up again.” So I took the fingerboard off and planed the neck, which had a very convex shape. When I applied glue, something told me to check it with a straightedge, and the convex shape was back. Improvising, I grabbed a very flat reference board, just a 2˝×4˝ that I keep planed up very flat, put a couple of pieces of paper in the center of the length to force it into a concave shape, and clamped it up. Later I observed the grain of the neck was straight until 3˝ from the bottom end, where 5MM down from the gluing surface it shot up at a 45° angle. It changed direction remarkably.

The next day I realized that this process of sizing the neck and holding it until it took a proper shape might be a simple solution. When I glued it again, I found that it held its shape. The customer was in again a year later, and the neck was still fine. That made perfect sense because hide glue is mostly water, and as it penetrates, the wood reacts and changes shape. By sizing and drying the neck in a controlled shape, I can get it to hold that shape after the sizing glue dries. Later the glue for assembling the joint will penetrate only until it hits that sizing; the shape will not change in gluing, and it’s very stable. I now do this to all my instruments and prefer it to using carbon-fiber rods, which I think make a neck too strong.

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Ultralight Cello and Other Heresies

Ultralight Cello and Other Heresies

by James Ham

from his 2011 GAL Convention lecture

Originally published in American Lutherie #112, 2012



Before we begin, I’d like for you to listen to some music. (Behind a curtain on stage, Marshall Bruné plays a short selection on one instrument, then the same selection on a second instrument.) I’m curious. Can anyone tell me what kind of instrument they heard?

Audience: A violin.

A violin, yes. Did you notice anything else?

Audience members: The first instrument had better note separation. The second instrument sounded a little louder and a little deeper. I thought the first instrument had more overtones. The second one sounded tighter.

But they both kind of sounded like violins? Well, here’s what you heard. (Marshall steps from behind the curtain, holding Doug Martin’s lightweight violin.)

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That Fine Fake-Old Finish

That Fine Fake-Old Finish

by R.M. Motola

Originally published in American Lutherie #117, 2014



I received an interesting question a while back from someone asking about ways to build a guitar so that it would have a darker tone or how to retrofit an existing instrument for darker tone. Although the term “darker” is fairly ambiguous and certainly open to personal interpretation, if I were to attempt to make an instrument sound darker myself, the first thing I would do to that end is give it a dark-colored finish.

From a strictly sonic perspective, this advice is utterly foolish — the color of the paint is not going to affect the sound even a little bit. This is both intuitively obvious and could easily be confirmed using either measurement of the instrument’s sonic output or by blind listening evaluation. But although such techniques are useful for research purposes, they do not necessarily emulate the conditions under which instruments are “heard” in the real world.

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An American in Mirecourt

An American in Mirecourt

Violin Construction as Learned by an Apprentice to René Morizot

by Paul Schuback

from his 1995 GAL Convention workshop

Originally published in American Lutherie #63, 2000 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume Six, 2013

See also,
An American in Mirecourt, Part Two by Paul Schuback



When I started out, my idea was to make lutes. I haven’t made one yet, and the more time goes by, the less likely it is that I ever will, but that was my intention — to go to France and study lute making. I found out that lute building was not easy to learn, and violin making was more lucrative, so I decided to become a violin maker. I studied with René Morizot from 1962 to 1965.

Between 1900 and the 1960s, to graduate from a violin apprenticeship program like I went through, you had to be able to make a violin in the white (en blanc), including the scroll, in a week. You started Tuesday morning, and by Saturday night, working eight hours a day, you had to have it done. That may seem fast, but it’s really not. Friends of mine, older guys, would actually make two violins a week, not including cutting the scrolls. They’d have a scroll maker cut the scrolls and necks, then they’d set them into their instruments. Cottage-industry people who worked at home could make up to six violins a week, in the white, ready to be varnished. It was piece work, and they were paid by the numbers that they made. If they made the six by Saturday, they’d get their quota. If they made more, they’d get bonuses. They were cheap instruments, but they worked.

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An American in Mirecourt, Part Two

An American in Mirecourt, Part Two

Violin Construction as Learned by an Apprentice to René Morizot

by Paul Schuback

from his 1995 GAL Convention workshop

Originally published in American Lutherie #65, 2001 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume Six, 2013

See also,
An American in Mirecourt by Paul Schuback



Roughing Out the Insides of Plates and Cutting f-holes

After the outsides of the plates have been carved and scraped to their finished shapes and the purfling has been installed, the next step is to trace the f-holes onto the top. The f-holes will be cut out after the inside of the plate has been roughed out and the plate is thinner, but this is the time when you establish their positions. Measure 19.3MM from the edge of the plate at the neck end to find the bridge position on the centerline, and locate your f-hole template by referencing off of the bridge position and the centerline of the top. You can play with how they are angled to suit your own tastes. Trace the f-holes onto the top, and check to make sure that they end up an equal distance from the edges by measuring with a divider.

The French always carve little hollows where the lower wings of the f-holes will go so that those areas will be recessed on the finished top. So after you have traced the f-holes, you gouge, plane, and scrape the wing areas out a little bit. In the process, you will cut away parts of your lines, so you will need to retrace them.

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This article is part of the Articles Online featured on our website for Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 3 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page.

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