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Questions: String Tension and Pure Tone

Questions: String Tension and Pure Tone

by R.M. Mottola

Originally published in American Lutherie #98, 2009

See also,
Questions: String Tension and Purity of Tone by Alan Carruth

 

Pat Bowen from the Internet asks:

A generally accepted fact is that the higher the string tension, the more pure the tone. This causes me grief, since I have to build instruments to support the heaviest strings. Even if I don’t recommend them, someone is going to use them. But is this thing about the high tension and pure tone really true or is it just a folk tale?


The Questions Column editor
responds:

The short answer is yes, it is true, and the short explanation is inharmonicity. The higher the tension, the closer the partials are to true harmonic multiples of the fundamental frequency. On p. 115 of his book Engineering the Guitar — Theory and Practice, Richard Mark French states: “...increasing the radius [of the string] or elastic modulus [i.e., stiffness] makes the deviation from the ideal harmonic series worse, while increasing tension or length makes it better.” This is an interesting topic worthy of an article or at least a longer explanation than I’ve given here, which I hope someone will provide.

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Inharmonicity of Guitar Strings

Inharmonicity of Guitar Strings

by Mark French

Originally published in American Lutherie #100, 2009



Strings are uniquely well suited to make music because all their resonant frequencies are very close to being integer multiples of the fundamental frequency.1 The octave is the most consonant interval and the resonant frequencies of a vibrating string are separated from one another by octaves. The expression for the resonant frequencies of an ideal string is familiar to many luthiers.

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Violin Setups, Part One

Violin Setups, Part One

by Michael Darnton

from his 1990 GAL Convention lecture

Originally published in American Lutherie #35, 1993 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume Three, 2004

See also,
Violin Setups, Part Two by Michael Darnton



Setups represent one of the most important aspects of violin work. They are the most changeable part of a violin and can make the difference between a customer liking or hating a violin. People who do setups for a living in large shops do a lot of them — countless numbers of bridges, pegs, posts, and nuts. If you’re making one or two or twenty instruments a year you’re not going to be doing many setups. For the people who do those things everyday, it’s a very specialized art and they have very rigorous standards. With that in mind I’m going to try to communicate to you some of those standards, along with some actual “how-to” hints.

Tools

A bench hook (Photo 1) is simply a piece of wood that has a strip nailed to the bottom on one end and a strip nailed to the top on the other end. It hooks over the front edge of the bench and gives a stop to work against. On the under side of my bench hook I’ve glued a piece of sandpaper (Photo 2). If a tiny, thin piece of wood needs to be planed thinner, I flip over the bench hook and use the sandpaper as a traction area.

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Violin Setups, Part Two

Violin Setups, Part Two

by Michael Darnton

from his 1990 GAL Convention lecture

Originally published in American Lutherie #37, 1994 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume Three, 2004

See also,
Violin Setups, Part One by Michael Darnton



Bridge

When fitting a bridge, the first thing to determine is the proper placement. Ideally the bridge is exactly centered between the inner nicks on the f-holes. This assumes that the holes are centrally located on the violin, which is not always the case, and that the fingerboard is pointed at that position, which it commonly isn’t. The most important aspect of bridge placement is that the string path should be in a straight line. That is, the bridge should be directly between the nut and the end button. In this centering I would expect a maximum total deviation of about .5MM, and I would try to compromise this adjustment the least, assuming that the strings remained pretty much over the center of the fingerboard. If the neck was pointed really wrong I might consider resetting it. Also, I always check to be sure of the position of the end button, and I’ll move it if necessary. In some instances this can be an easy method of correcting for a slightly-wrong neck set. If the f-holes were really off center on an old instrument and I had the time and money, I’d consider resetting the neck and end button off center to match, possibly replacing the neck so that the heel would still point (although crookedly) at the button at the top of the back, minimizing changes to the button.

Anyway, with an understanding of the problem and the possibilities, find a good place for the bridge to sit in the “east-west” dimension, then determine the proper “north-south” location. Ideally, the length of the neck from the nut to the edge of the top next to the neck on the E-string side should be 130MM, and from that point to the middle of the bridge 195MM; a ratio of 2:3. Consistency in this ratio keeps the positions of the player’s fingers relatively the same compared to the edge of the body, no matter what the total string length — an important factor in finding notes in the upper positions. If the length on the neck is off, the position of the bridge should be altered to compensate. For instance, if the neck length is 128MM, the distance to the bridge (the “stop”) would be (128/2)×3=192MM. This is the theory, at least, but I should also warn you that like most things in the violin world this is a subject of controversy, because some people believe that the total length of the string is the most important thing and would deal with the 128MM neck by making the stop 197MM instead. These people maintain two things. Firstly, that the player will quickly adjust to the new ratio. This is true — just ask a viola player. Violas are notoriously nonstandard. Secondly, they assert that the proper string length is important for the tone of the instrument. This is possibly but not necessarily true. Now you know the logic; the decision is yours.

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Musical Strings

Musical Strings

by H.E. Huttig

Originally published in American Lutherie #9, 1987 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume One, 2000



In the realm of stringed musical instruments, logically enough, the quality and strength of the sound produced is largely dependent upon the strings that the instrument maker must use. To be sure, a string tensioned between two fixed points with no sounding box will scarcely make an audible response when plucked. On the other hand, the sound made by a finished instrument varies widely with the qualities of the strings that are used.

There is a Persian legend to the effect that the stringed instrument concept was discovered by a person wandering in a desert. He came upon the shell of a tortoise. The bottom was lost but the top part still had dry sinews stretched across the hollow shell. The wind blowing across them made a musical sound. The Chinese gave us the idea of strings made of silk. There is still controversy as to whether the hunting bow with its vibrating string gave man the idea of a musical application or whether it was the other way around, the stringed instrument providing the idea of the archer’s bow.

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