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Grading on the Curves

Grading on the Curves: Fitting Bars and Bridges on Archtop Guitars

by Steve Andersen

from his 2006 GAL Convention workshop

Originally published in American Lutherie #91, 2007



The first thing I’ll show you today is how I fit tone bars to the top. Then I’ll talk about fitting the base of a bridge to a top, first with this router jig that indexes off the top and gets me really close to the final shape, then moving on to the final fitting. I brought some extra materials if anyone wants to try hand-fitting an ebony bridge or a tone bar.

I use the term tone bar, because I think of braces as being structural. If you built a flattop guitar without braces, it would just fold up. An archtop could be built without braces and it would hold up fine. The archtop’s bars are not so much for structure, so I call them tone bars.

One thing that helps me in the fitting process is that my arching is very consistent from guitar to guitar. The arching templates for my guitars started out based on a D’Angelico New Yorker, and have evolved over the years to what I’m using today. So while I have several body sizes, they have similarities based on what I’ve found works well for my sound.

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Experimental Violin Acoustics

Experimental Violin Acoustics

by George Bissinger

from his 1984 GAL Convention lecture

Originally published in American Lutherie #7, 1986 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume One, 2000



It was a pleasure to discuss the “secrets” of violins at the kind of meeting that would scarcely have seemed possible in the time of the legendary Cremonese luthiers. As a member of the Catgut Acoustical Society, which is devoted to all aspects of bowed string instruments from the raw materials (gut?) to the finished product (cat?) and its sound (meow?), I can only welcome this shared discussion.

The Society has sponsored the construction of a family of eight violins covering the frequency range of 41Hz to 1318Hz (lowest to highest open string), and has a demonstrated interest in all violin matters whether they are purely practical, subjective, and aesthetic, or purely abstract, objective, and quantitative.

The talk I gave at this GAL meeting covered a range of topics concerning violins in which I personally have been involved. These topics leaned rather more to the concrete aspects of violin making such as working with student instruments, testing plates of unassembled (or humidity disassembled) instruments, plate archings, bassbar tuning, and humidity effects, but also included discussion of coupling between enclosed air oscillations and plate vibrations in the assembled instrument.

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Making Lining Strips — One

Making Lining Strips — One

by Rolfe Gerhardt

Originally published as Guild of American Luthiers Data Sheet #71, 1978 and in Lutherie Woods and Steel String Guitars, 1997



I used to make lining strips one at a time, a long, tedious process. Then I visited Charlie Hoffmann in Minneapolis and was inspired to work out this gang-saw setup. The saws are 6" plywood saws, very small kerf, and are spaced on the radial arm shaft with 1/4" spacers. Three blades fit comfortably on my radial arm saw. The holder is a board with a guide strip and two hold-down springs. This holder is clamped to the radial arm saw table. I hold the strip I am sawing with my other hand.

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One Way to Make Kerfed Lining

One Way to Make Kerfed Lining

by Richard Ennis

Originally published in American Lutherie #2, 1985



In general, linings exist in three or four types, all of which are related to one another. There is the solid type which must be bent before use; individual blocks, which might be thought of as the solid type of lining cut up to a more manageable size; laminated linings, another variation of the solid type; and kerfed linings. The kerfed lining is perhaps best seen as either a line of individual blocks linked together, or as a solid lining kerfed for flexibility.

Here is how I make kerfed linings. It is a method with very little wastage and is efficient for use in a small workshop. When using the approximate dimensions given below it produces a lining that appears as a series of individual blocks linked together on a wooden ribbon.

I select my timber for linings by giving first consideration to the working properties. I want to avoid ragged edges from the numerous saw cuts, but look for wood with good gluing capability, that sands well, and that is not too fractious and inclined to split. Willow, alder, and linden are all good candidates, as is tulip tree wood, sometimes marketed as “yellow poplar”.

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