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The $75 Guitar Challenge

The $75 Guitar Challenge

by Doug Hunt and Mark French

Originally published in American Lutherie #142, 2021



Mark: A couple years ago, I was walking around a big home store and started to wonder whether it would be possible to build a guitar only from things I could buy there. Obviously, they didn’t sell tuners, fretwire, or truss rods. However, I thought it might be possible if one had those three things. I decided that, given those parts, it might be possible to make a guitar with $75 to spend at the home store. Thinking it might be an interesting challenge, I suggested the idea to Doug Hunt. Doug and I have been guitar-making friends for years, having met as part of a project aiming to teach technical subjects to high school students through guitar making. (Check it out at guitarbuilding.org.) He was interested, though not looking for one more thing to do at the time.

A while later, he suggested that a better idea would be to start with a budget of $75 that could be spent anywhere (he’s a big fan of eBay, as it happens). As long as the money could be spent anywhere, he thought that it might be possible to do the whole instrument for $75. Over some months of occasionally revisiting the idea, we did a little negotiating and settled on the following rules:

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Measuring Resonant Frequencies of an Acoustic Guitar

Measuring Resonant Frequencies of an Acoustic Guitar

by Mark French

Originally published in American Lutherie #143, 2021



Many luthiers track resonant frequencies of their acoustic guitars, often with the goal of meeting some target values. It’s common for the first two resonant frequencies of a full-sized acoustic guitar to be near 100Hz and 200Hz respectively. Some builders use detailed frequency measurements during the build process. For example, Greg Byers described his methods in his 2017 GAL Convention workshop (AL#134). Another good discussion is in Volume 1 of Contemporary Acoustic Guitar Design and Build by Trevor Gore and Gerard Gilet.

Resonant frequencies are a function of the ratio of stiffness over mass. Specifically, frequency is proportional to √(stiffness/mass). This simple relationship is harder to apply at higher modes, but it describes the effect of the structure on the lowest modes well enough for us. In practice, it’s easier to reduce resonant frequencies than to increase them. Selectively thinning parts of the top or shaving braces reduces stiffness more than mass, and so tends to reduce resonant frequencies. It’s very uncommon for luthiers to add anything, either mass or stiffness, to their guitars in order to modify dynamic response, though it is certainly a valid thing to do. Trevor Gore is the only one who comes to mind, though there may be others I’ve not heard of.

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It Worked for Me: String Dampening

It Worked for Me: String Dampening

by Mark French

Originally published in American Lutherie #109, 2012

 

I noticed that Michael Cone uses a piece of foam to damp the strings on the guitar for testing (AL#102, p. 8). This is pretty much universal. If you don’t damp the strings, the body response is swamped by the string response. I’ve been testing guitars since the early ’90s and have spent way too much time cutting pieces of foam to put under strings.

A little while ago, I thought to use disposable foam earplugs. They are cheap, universally available, and designed for high damping. Better still, they are just the right size to stuff between guitar strings. I have had the best luck with the yellow foam ear plugs made by EAR, but the cheap generic ones work well enough. You don’t even have to throw the earplugs away when you are done. ◆

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Making a Truly Flat Sanding Bar

Making a Truly Flat Sanding Bar

by Mark French

Originally published in American Lutherie #113, 2013



As any luthier knows, a flat sanding bar is an indispensable tool. Buying one can be expensive, but making one isn’t as hard as you might think. It is not difficult to use strips of sandpaper to sand rectangular aluminum tube or bar stock to an extremely flat condition.

To start, I should be clear that I like using 3˝ sanding bars, which are wider than many of those commercially available. They are handy for a number of tasks, especially ensuring that necks and fretboards are flat before gluing them together. They are a nice alternative to a heavy granite surface plate and are much easier to tuck away when not needed. Certainly, narrower ones can be more useful for leveling frets, and they can also be made using the process described here.

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An Automated Fret Slotting Machine

An Automated Fret Slotting Machine

by Jim Stratton and Mark French

Originally published in American Lutherie #114, 2013



One of the most challenging and critical aspects of building a fretted stringed instrument is cutting fret slots. Fret location can make or break the quality of even the most meticulously crafted instruments. The most common method currently in place utilizes a miter box and a fret saw, but this method depends on the user and is subject to human error. When thousandths of an inch matter, how does one accurately guarantee fret location?

Automation is the obvious answer. While automation does remove a portion of the “handcrafted” ambiance of any fine instrument, it also removes human error. A machine does not miscalculate when it’s tired or accidentally shift the fretboard while cutting the final fret on a fretboard that has countless hours of hard work invested. When accuracy and repeatability are required, automation answers the call.

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