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Product Reviews: Mandolin tuners

Product Reviews: Mandolin tuners

by JAmes Condino

Originally published in American Lutherie #93, 2008



About ten years ago, I was in the middle of a guitar lesson when my teacher suddenly put down his guitar and picked up a mandolin to describe a moment of musical universality. I was instantly hooked; the giant light bulb appeared above my head; I realized I could build a nice mandolin from my guitar off-cuts and scrap pile. I didn’t know anything about mandolin tuning machines, so I let a fellow at the local fiddle shop sell me a set that turned the gears in the reverse direction for every string. I thought they were a bit deco and fun.

A few weeks later I found myself backstage at North Carolina’s Merlefest, new mandolin in hand, talking up a storm with one of the more popular (anonymous) mandolin players in the world who also can sing a great story while sawing on his fiddle. Quirky fellow that he is, he picked up my new mandolin and turned the first string a few cents out of tune in the wrong direction. After he adjusted the other seven strings, retuning the entire mandolin flat, he told me never to use those tuners again! That day I realized I needed a lot more information on what tuners were out there and how they worked.

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It Worked for Me: Fretboard Radiusing Jig

It Worked for Me: Fretboard Radiusing Jig

by James Blilie

Originally published in American Lutherie #132, 2017



I have always found creating the fretboard radius a laborious process. I never liked sanding it all the way using a radiused sanding block: too slow, too much work. I wanted a way to get it close enough so that the final sanding with the radius block and the 180-grit sandpaper would complete the job quickly and without so much effort. I’ve seen several luthiers use a shaper to put the basic radius on. (I don’t have a shaper.) I used to sometimes use a plane to rough out the radius before sanding, but this method was laborious and hard to control.

Dissatisfied with my previous methods, I designed and built a jig that bolts onto my 6˝×48˝ flatbed belt sander and provides the radius for the fretboard. The inner frame holds the fretboard using double-stick cloth carpet tape. This sits inside of and is bolted to an outer frame that clamps to the sander, using locating pins. (I drilled holes in the sander frame and put the pins into the wooden jig frame.) The interface between the inner frame and the outer frame is a radius. Both sides of the interface are cut from a single piece of 3/4˝ Baltic hardwood plywood (well, two pieces, one for each end; I screwed them together for cutting the radius). Take great care cutting the radius as this single bandsaw cut defines the interface. This radius is not the desired radius of your fretboard: It is the desired fretboard radius minus the distance from the interface to the sanding bed. This radius must be calculated as part of the design of the jig.

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“Restomodding” Wall-Hanger Guitars

“Restomodding” Wall-Hanger Guitars

by Roger Häggström

Originally published in American Lutherie #144, 2021



Cheap guitars were made in great numbers all over the world at the beginning of the last century. In Sweden, the driving force behind a burgeoning interest in guitars was the independent church movement. The prevailing sentiment was that every able-bodied parishioner should be able to play three chords on a guitar at prayer meetings and fundraisers (Photo 1). Many of these instruments still exist, mostly in unplayable condition. I have found ways to restore these wonderful old guitars and make them play and sound better than ever.

I love the bass-balanced sound of old-style ladder bracing in a small steel-strung parlor guitar. The complex sounds keep me wanting to play another chord. Modern X bracing gives more bass but also less varied tone, in my opinion.

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It Worked for Me: Magnetic Table Saw Jig for Narrow Ripping

It Worked for Me: Magnetic Table Saw Jig for Narrow Ripping

by Bob Gleason

Originally published in American Lutherie #143, 2021



Here is a simple jig I use when I cut binding or kerfing strips (Photo 1). For this repetitive operation I needed an easy way to set up to cut the strips and also to add a zero throat to the saw.

This will work on any table saw with a cast-iron table. It is simply a piece of cabinet-grade 3/4˝ plywood, cut to an appropriate size to fit your saw table, with six powerful magnets glued flush into the underside (Photo 2).

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Side Bender and Body Mold Cut from One Sheet of Plywood

Side Bender and Body Mold Cut from One Sheet of Plywood

by Terence Warbey

Originally published in American Lutherie #142, 2021



After reading Mark French’s article about his time in the shop of Charles Fox (“A Guitar Is Born: Attending Charles Fox’s Hands-On Guitar Making Course,” AL#136 and Mark’s series, “The Charles Fox Guitar-Building Method,” beginning in AL#139), one idea kept coming back into my mind: “a library of bending forms.” Wouldn’t that be delightful, to have the forms stacked like books rather than my jumble of assembled forms, precariously balanced upon each other on a shelf, collecting dust?

I was able to make such a bending form and a matching body mold from a single piece of 24˝×48˝×18MM Baltic-birch plywood, cut into four pieces 12˝×24˝. The bending form uses three upright pieces. They are notched to receive two, also notched, cross pieces. These cross pieces are cut from the spare fourth piece and have a small horizontal piece attached to the bottom of them to easily clamp the assembly down to my Workmate.

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