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Nuts and Bolts for Bridge Gluing

Nuts and Bolts for Bridge Gluing

by Tim Olsen

Originally published in Guild of American Luthiers Data Sheet #126, 1979 and Lutherie Woods and Steel String Guitars, 1998

 

The holes of a pin-style bridge provide a golden opportunity to apply some very convincing clamping pressure. I use 3 10×32 1" round-head bolts with washers, wing nuts, and pieces of drilled shoe sole leather to temporarily bolt the bridge on while gluing.

This not only exerts a strong pressure to the back edge of the bridge, but the bolts ensure an accurate alignment of the bridge. All that remains is to set a deep-throated cam clamp on each end of the bridge. The leather washers will take up any slop that the bridge might have. This is a natural for repair work as well as construction. ◆

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Grading on the Curves

Grading on the Curves: Fitting Bars and Bridges on Archtop Guitars

by Steve Andersen

from his 2006 GAL Convention workshop

Originally published in American Lutherie #91, 2007



The first thing I’ll show you today is how I fit tone bars to the top. Then I’ll talk about fitting the base of a bridge to a top, first with this router jig that indexes off the top and gets me really close to the final shape, then moving on to the final fitting. I brought some extra materials if anyone wants to try hand-fitting an ebony bridge or a tone bar.

I use the term tone bar, because I think of braces as being structural. If you built a flattop guitar without braces, it would just fold up. An archtop could be built without braces and it would hold up fine. The archtop’s bars are not so much for structure, so I call them tone bars.

One thing that helps me in the fitting process is that my arching is very consistent from guitar to guitar. The arching templates for my guitars started out based on a D’Angelico New Yorker, and have evolved over the years to what I’m using today. So while I have several body sizes, they have similarities based on what I’ve found works well for my sound.

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String Spacing

String Spacing

by Sylvan Wells

Originally published as Guild of American Luthiers Data Sheet #103, 1979



After reviewing most, if not all books on guitar construction I realized that there was no proper spacing for cutting slots for strings in the nut or laying out centers in order to drill the holes for bridge pins.

It really is quite simple and I’ll explain the method and then conclude it with the mathematics already completed in an easy to use table.

First, it is essential to understand that although you are placing six points you are really dealing with 5 spacings (Space between strings, 1–2, 2–3, 3–4, 4–5, 5–6). The distance for those 6 spacings is determined by the distance desired from the centers of the outside holes (E & E or 1 & 6). For the bridges, the distance is the same as the width of the neck at the 12th fret. That distance centered on the bridge blank are the center points for holes 1 & 6.

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Bridge Positioning

Bridge Positioning

by Eric Henderson

Originally published in Guild of American Luthiers Data Sheet #7, 1975

 

One procedure I use which your readers may find useful is that on my guitar top all the cross bracing and fan bracing is made up from the cuttings from the top blanks.

For the cross bracing, I have to laminate two pieces together with the joint at right angles to the top. This procedure, I feel, guarantees that the woods are compatible.

Another thing I do is when gluing the bridge I drill two small holes approximately 1/16" diam. in the slot for the ivory saddle, and when the bridge is precisely positioned, I drill through the top. The bridge can then be glued without being concerned about it moving because I temporarily inset two finishing nails in the two holes.

The finishing nails are removed before the glue has completely set. The holes remaining are covered up by the ivory saddle.

These are just two small items, but I would like to see the members who want to share small items like this write them up. ◆

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Brazilian Guitar Makers

Brazilian Guitarmakers

by Roberto Gomes

Originally published in American Lutherie #33, 1993 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume Three, 2004



The guitar has been the main musical instrument in Brazil since it was brought by the Portuguese colonizers centuries ago. In those times, Baroque guitars were the most common string instruments. They had five courses of gut or wire strings. Since then it hasn’t changed much, as we can see in the “Brazilian viola” which is used for a kind of Brazilian country music called musica sertaneja (countryside music). The shape of the soundbox of this viola today resembles more a small classic guitar. Unfortunately there are very few records of those times, making it difficult to make a better study of those guitars and their makers. It’s known that most of the instruments were made in Portugal, Italy, and France.

The first decade of this century brought three immigrant families from Italy: the Gianninis, the DiGiorgios, and the DelVecchios. These families were luthiers in their country of origin and later they founded the main Brazilian guitar factories which became the backbone of Brazilian-made guitars for nearly eighty years. They made mostly classic guitars and some violins, along with Brazilian violas. They also made mandolins, first with vaulted backs like lutes and later with flat backs, which are used to play choro music.

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