Posted on June 20, 2019May 27, 2025 by Dale Phillips The New Violin Family The New Violin Family by Alan Carruth previously published in American Lutherie #86, 2006 See also, Meet the Maker: Carleen Hutchins by Alan Carruth The Catgut Acoustical Society and the New Violin Family Association by Robert J. Spear These diagrams are intended to show the relative sizes of the octet instruments; dimensions shown are not definitive. Detailed full-scale plans are available from the New Violin Family Association. The neck of the small bass as shown here is longer than might be expected. This is to ease the transition between a standard bass viol and the octet small bass. Small basses have also been built successfully with necks that are more in scale with the instrument body. The largest five instruments are played on endpins. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of our premium web content offered to Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 4 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. If you are already a member, login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on June 19, 2019May 21, 2025 by Dale Phillips A Friendly Interview with Donald Warnock A Friendly Interview with Donald Warnock by David B. Sheppard previously published in Guild of American Luthiers Quarterly 8 #2, 1980 Could you say something about when and how you happened to get into instrument building? How did you choose early instruments as opposed to making copies of Martin guitars? My interest in musical instruments came through a generalized association of the guitar with good times and nice sounds. It was the typical instrument when I was growing up. I was always charmed by the possibilities and the actuality of the guitar as a music making machine. As I grew up, I became interested in the fine arts and spent a lot of time studying and practicing as a painter. However, I found that I didn’t really want to pursue a career as a fine artist because I wasn’t much interested in promoting my work or producing a consistent body of work. What I like to do is stand in front of an easel and explore visual possibilities. That was getting me nowhere as far as establishing myself as a self-sustaining individual. I did other things for awhile, among which was restoration of prints, drawings and paintings. I was fascinated with ancient methods and the incredible results that were possible when a tradition which was extremely practical in the decorative and the visual dine arts was handed down from master to apprentice. The ease with which materials could be manipulated in an artistic way always intrigued me. This kind of exploration, although I didn’t pursue it fully in painting, has turned out to be very useful in certain aspects of instrument making such as varnishing, carving or the designing of decorative elements. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of our premium web content offered to Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 4 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. If you are already a member, login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on January 19, 2010September 15, 2025 by Dale Phillips Questions: Hammered Dulcimer Questions: Hammered Dulcimer by John Calkin Originally published in American Lutherie #81, 2005 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume Seven, 2015 Gerald E. King from Conifer, Colorado asks: I am gathering material to construct a hammered dulcimer using GAL Instrument Plan #39. According to the plan’s creators Suran and Robison, the soundboard should be 1/4" thick, quartersawn mahogany. I have contacted several suppliers with no luck. Is this an unusually thick soundboard requirement? Is it an error in the plans? John Calkin from Greenville, Virginia replies: Hammered dulcimers have lots of string tension that would like to fold the instrument in half. A top as thick as 1/4" is necessary to help take the strain. Just about all my dulcimers had the top glued to the frame, and any weakness in the bracing of the top (or anywhere else) often led to distortions of the top that were seldom lethal but always ugly. There’s a construction method that uses a floating top of thinner material, but it has many more internal braces and is much more complicated to build. I’ve never made one. There’s so much tension on a dulcimer that even a thick top rings like a bell. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of the Articles Online featured on our website for Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. For details, visit the membership page. MEMBERS: login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on January 19, 2010September 10, 2025 by Dale Phillips Questions: Clark Harp Value Questions: Clark Harp Value by Howard Bryan Originally published in American Lutherie #80, 2004 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume Seven, 2015 Keith Davis of Iron River, Michigan asks: I have in my shop an old Clark harp, SN 2102. The owner wishes to know more about its value. The headblock has been reglued, and there are a number of small, inconsequential cracks in the soundboard, but it is otherwise in great shape and has its original stand. Howard Bryan of Lynchburg, Virginia answers: Clark Irish harps are cute, and they certainly filled a void when they were being built. They also had some neat design features, like the little collapsible stool that became an integral part of the instrument when needed. That said, there are far better harps being made today. The main problem with the Clarks is the sharping blades, which are not adjustable. With a new soundboard, intonation isn’t too bad, but as the harp matures the string lengths change and the blades are no longer in quite the correct place, so the harp plays out of tune with blades engaged. I recommend that active musicians buy a more modern instrument from one of the better makers, as opposed to spending big bucks reconditioning a Clark, but emotions are often a factor and we have repaired/restored several in the last couple of years. Typically most need the knee block and pillar/neck joint reglued. Since the original joints were doweled, it is usually a trick to get them completely apart. Many need new soundboards, which is an expensive repair. The originals were fine, but most are becoming unglued and many have split. They seem to sell for around $3000 if in really good shape, less if they need work. A Clark Irish needing neck/kneeblock/soundboard repairs can usually be had for under $500, but the cost of repairs needs to be added to the purchase price.
Posted on January 19, 2010September 10, 2025 by Dale Phillips Questions: Upright Bass Questions: Upright Bass by James Condino and Randy DeBey Originally published in American Lutherie #80, 2004 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume Seven, 2013 Dan Poehnelt of Marshfield, WI asks: I have a client who would like me to make him an upright bass. Do you have any idea where I can get some specs or instructions to make one of these? Rhett Runolfson of Springville, UT asks: I mostly work with guitars but the local music store said that if I helped them with setups on their orchestral instruments, which are shipped in from the Orient, I could probably get some of their guitar work too. Well... I’m getting my butt kicked on this bass. I have to remove the fingerboard and shave the neck down to get the proper angle. How do I get the fingerboard off? Heat and a seam knife don’t seem to be doing the job. And what is the proper angle for the neck for a contra bass? Is there a book that I could pick up on orchestral instruments that could tell me these things or would someone know a secret on this Oriental glue that is impervious to heat? Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of the Articles Online featured on our website for Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. For details, visit the membership page. MEMBERS: login for access or contact us to setup your account.
