Posted on October 10, 2025October 10, 2025 by Dale Phillips Finishing Techniques for Hiding Repair Work Finishing Techniques for Hiding Repair Work by Dan Erlewine from his 1992 GAL Convention lecture Originally published in American Lutherie #36, 1993 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie, Volume Three, 2004 I grew up looking at the record jackets of my parents’ folk music — Burl Ives, Marais & Miranda (Joseph Marais played a 00-28 herringbone), Josh White with his 00-45. When the Kingston Trio hit around ’59, and I saw those Martins, I just had to have one. I went down to a pawn shop on Michigan Avenue in Detroit and got a Domino, if anyone remembers those. Marc Silber can tell you who made them. I took it home and stripped off the paint so it looked like a Martin and the rest has been a lot of fun. Here are some tricks I learned after I applied for my first job as a luthier at Herb David’s Guitar Studio in 1962. (There’s more on Herb David in American Lutherie #26; more on Dan’s career in AL#25.) I was seventeen and out of high school. I had been hacking stuff in my dad’s workshop, but I wanted to learn more so I’d go over to Herb’s and hang around. I worked at McDonald’s, and I’d take him big bags of free cheeseburgers that I had made myself. They were triple-deckers, which they didn’t make then. One day Herb showed me a Gibson SJ with rosewood back and sides (now I realize just how rare that guitar was!). It had a big fist-sized hole punched through it. Herb said, “Fix this, kid.” Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of the Articles Online featured on our website for Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. For details, visit the membership page. MEMBERS: login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on October 9, 2025October 9, 2025 by Dale Phillips Meet the Maker: Charles Beare Meet the Maker: Charles Beare by Jonathon Peterson Originally published in American Lutherie #82, 2005 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume Seven, 2017 In the violin world, Charles Beare is one of the people whose opinion matters. His passion for instruments has inspired him to achieve an internationally recognized level of expertise. His London-based business, J&A Beare Ltd., was established in 1865, and he is the fourth generation Beare to sit at its helm. Last November he attended the Violin Society of America’s 32nd Convention to lecture and to help judge their 16th International Competition. He graciously took time out of his busy schedule there to tell me a little about his life and his love for the instruments. I don’t know if you are aware, but you have been in the pages of our journal before. Oh really? When was that? Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of the Articles Online featured on our website for Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. For details, visit the membership page. MEMBERS: login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on June 19, 2025September 12, 2025 by Dale Phillips Working with Water-based Finish Working with Water-based Finish by John Kitakis Originally published in American Lutherie #68, 2001 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume Six, 2013 The protective and decorative coating of stringed instruments we call finish work seems to be a never-ending struggle. The battle to produce a beautiful finish and the mental anguish it induces, along with trying to stay healthy while complying with environmental laws makes finish work a challenge, to say the least. Some of us live in areas with strict industrial emissions codes, whereas others live where no one cares. But even in these “country” settings, the fact remains that certain finishing materials are hazardous, both to our bodies and the environment. And since most luthiers love wood, trees, clean air, music, food, children — you know, all of the good things in life — then we should strive to build and finish in a conscientious manner. In the 1970s I began building and restoring furniture, and then eventually stringed instruments. During those years I experimented with oils, varnish, French polishing shellacs, and synthetic lacquers, and still have pieces of furniture in my house twenty-five years later that have beautiful, hand-rubbed finishes. But to be productive (read “to make a profitable living”) I chose nitrocellulose lacquer. And through those years I must have sprayed enough lacquer and polyurethanes (toluene, benzene, xylene, and more) to probably kill all of the laboratory rats in the world. I’m probably alive thanks to my exhaust fan (who knows what happened to the neighbors?), but each night I would have headaches and a crusty irritation in my nose and lungs, along with having to clear my throat every few seconds. My wife could actually smell the fumes exuding from me as we slept. So those who use these nasty chemicals — with or without the benefit of fans and masks — besides dying young, become grumpy, irritable, and perhaps even unwilling sponsors of the drug companies. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of the Articles Online featured on our website for Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. For details, visit the membership page. MEMBERS: login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on July 7, 2024May 15, 2025 by Dale Phillips Questions: Martin Finish Questions: Martin finish by Walter Carter Originally published in American Lutherie #104, 2010 Kerry Char from Portland, Oregon asks: Exactly what kind of finish were Gibson and Martin using before they switched to nitrocellulose lacquer? How was it applied, and when was the switch. I’m thinking that it was oil varnish similar to violin varnish, because it is resistant to acetone. But if that’s the case, how did Gibson do some of their sunbursts? I know that the earlier ones were rubbed, but later ones from the ’20s and ’30s look sprayed. Walter Carter from Nashville, Tennessee replies: Neither Gibson nor Martin made an across-the-line change from varnish to lacquer. Richard Johnston and Dick Boak note in their recent book, Martin Guitars: A Technical Reference, that Martin finishes were French polish (shellac) until 1918, when they began experimenting with different combinations of varnish and lacquer. Martin first used nitrocellulose lacquer in 1926, and by 1929 it was the standard finish on most Martin guitars. For Gibsons, Stephen Gilchrist offers this information: Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of the Articles Online featured on our website for Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 3 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. MEMBERS: login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on July 7, 2024May 6, 2025 by Dale Phillips Lemon Oil and Carnauba Wax Lemon Oil and Carnauba Wax by Jimmie Van Originally published in Guild of American Luthiers Data Sheet #97, 1978 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume One, 2000 In a living tree the cell walls are saturated with water and pretty much keep their shape. After a tree is cut down and the wood is processed by air drying or kiln drying, most of the water is removed. The wood can shrink up to 20%. This wood is now like a sponge and even a finish like lacquer, varnish, or shellac only slows the rate of moisture absorption or loss. Thus, over time, the cells lose part of their ability to remain at or return to the size that you had originally intended. We see the results in swelling, shrinking, and cracking. Using pure lemon oil as a cleaner and carnauba wax as a sealer can further protect woods and slow down the changes on finished instruments. It is important to start with lemon oil that you know is pure. Most products sold as lemon oil contain considerable amounts of petroleum distillates and synthetics. Avoid these. You may be able to locate lemon oil through an essential oils store or a store carrying natural products (if it’s food quality, it’s probably the right stuff). First I make sure that the surface of the guitar or other wood instrument is free of old wax by using a mild wax remover. (The lemon oil will dissolve previous coats of carnauba wax.) I keep a soft, oil-moistened cloth in a sealable glass jar to keep it from evaporating between instruments. With this cloth I spread a coat of lemon oil over the entire instrument, letting it stand for fifteen to forty-five minutes or until most of the oil has been absorbed. Wipe any remaining oil off after this time as the wood will only take in what it needs. Pure lemon oil will not harm acetate or celluloid, but it can damage styrene. This can be a problem on some cheap instruments. Although pure lemon oil does not harm most finishes, I recommend caution, especially around stains. Lemon oil is also good for removing rosin buildup on violins, cleaning strings, and bringing up the sheen of finished or unfinished mother-of-pearl. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of the Articles Online featured on our website for Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 3 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. MEMBERS: login for access or contact us to setup your account.
