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Router Jig for Shaping a Neck

Router Jig for Shaping a Neck

by Mike Nealon

Originally published in American Lutherie #62, 2000



This jig is designed to carve a guitar neck with a constant thickness of 5/8" from the nut to about the 10th fret. The shaft of the neck has a circular cross section and is cut so smoothly that only a minimal amount of finish sanding is required. To carve a neck to this shape profile while also tapering the neck width requires that the neck billet be placed at an angle to the axis of rotation, shown schematically in Fig. 1. These particular necks, which I make for thin-body (2 1/4˝) acoustic guitars, are cut to the specifications found on the Martin dreadnought blueprint (except for the taper and the length of the heel). Since the heel is only 2" tall, the router can pass over the top of the heel. The necks are 14.05" long from the nut to the body; the region of constant thickness is 11 1/4" long, leaving 2 3/4" for the curve of the heel.

The jig is made in two parts separately mounted to a base plate: an inclined router table, and a rotation stage. The router table shown in Photo 1 is a wooden box on top of which will be a template to guide the router along a straight line. The rotation stage consists of a long narrow wooden platform, Photo 2, into which will be embedded a steel rod. The rod acts as the axis of rotation and is parallel to the base plate. The top of the rotation stage is tapered at the same angle as the router table. The neck billet is clamped, fretboard surface down, to this platform.

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Conical Fretboard Radiusing Jig

Conical Fretboard Radiusing Jig

by Mike Nealon

Originally published in American Lutherie #66, 2001



How flat does the top surface of a fretboard need to be? A good working estimate would be to equate the tolerance to the gap between the top of the 2nd fret and the bottom of a string fretted at the 1st fret. The tolerance must be less than this gap or the 2nd fret will come into contact with the string. With the bottom of the open string about .01" above the top of the 1st fret and about 1/16" from the top of the 20th fret, the gap between the fretted string and the top of the second fret is about .005".

Making a hardwood board flat to within .005" is not too difficult using ordinary woodworking tools. The router table and movable plate described here will produce a machine-carved surface smooth enough to require only a minimal amount of sanding or leveling.

Photo 1 shows the jig fully assembled, with the router. Photo 2 shows the jig partially disasembled to show the function of the parts. The conical fretboard made with this jig has a 10" radius at the nut, flattening to a radius of 16" at the last fret. The fretboard blank is 3/8" × 2 1/2" × 21", and is flat on one side. The finished fretboards are 7/32" thick at the crown, and taper from 1 11/16" at the nut to 2 3/16" at the 12th fret (12.670" from the nut).

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Stalking the Wild Pine Rosin

Stalking the Wild Pine Rosin

by Dave Raley

Originally published in American Lutherie #78, 2004



Having read Louis De Grazia’s article “Rosin Varnishes” on p. 167 of The Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume One, and seeking an undercoat that would not turn cedar red, and also not wishing to breathe the fumes of any of the various synthetics, I set out to buy some rosin stock. Couldn’t find it. Eventually I thought to check out the pines in the yard. Sure enough, not a hundred feet from the porch there were nodules of rosin and rosin-coated bark free for the taking. We are talking about good old pine pitch.

Gathering what I could from three trees, I chipped away some of the excess bark and filled a baby food jar loosely, topped it off with 190-proof ethyl alcohol and crimped aluminum foil over the top with a rubber band. The rosin dissolved in about a week and I began to make test pieces using the same stock the instrument was made of, to wit, cedar shingles. The tincture was darker than I had expected. It didn’t stain the test pieces a lot, but more than I wanted. Gotta have more rosin. A half-hour’s walk in the woods turned up enough mixed stock to overfill a quart baggie. About a third of the pines had at least a trace, and one in ten yielded worthwhile amounts. I had intended to fetch some cedar rosin while I was about it but couldn’t find any. Even the cedar that I had taken a branch off of last fall was clean.

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Violin Free Plate Mode Tuning Reprised

Violin Free Plate Mode Tuning Reprised

by Edgar B. Singleton

Originally published in American Lutherie #103, 2010



In the early stages of violin building, the outline of the top and back plates are established, as is the contour of the outside surfaces. Wood is removed from the underside of each plate until the thickness of the plate is a millimeter or so thicker than expected to be in the final form. The f-holes are cut; the bass bar and purfling are installed. The time has then come to graduate the plates, i.e., regulate the thickness of the plates in an attempt to assure that the finished violin will have all of the desired characteristics. Some builders “graduate to thickness” by carefully copying thickness measurements from important old violins. They listen to the pitches of tap tones and have learned ways to adjust these pitches. They have also learned to bend and twist the plates in their hands with the goal of assessing elastic properties, using experience to relate these “felt” properties to the finished violin.1 These processes involve as much art as science and require many years of carefully evaluated experience. This experience is very difficult to articulate to the novice builder.

One process associated with graduating the plates that is related to tap tones is referred to as “free plate mode tuning.”2 3 4 5 The following exposition is intended to help instrument builders, familiar with the material contained in the above references, understand the basis of free plate mode tuning as it is based on some simple physics and to provide a technique to fine tune each mode (tap tone) individually. The purpose of this paper is to give the builder a new basis on which to visualize where, and to understand why, to remove wood if one wishes to tune the free plates of a violin.

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Small Bow for Psalteries and Dulcimers

Small Bow for Psalteries and Dulcimers

by Tony Pizzo

Originally published as Guild of American Luthiers Data Sheet #38, 1976



This data sheet provides plans for a small, simple bow (especially well-suited for bowed psalteries) which I am still in the process of developing. There is no need for frogs and threaded shafting, etc. as the bow hair is held tightly by means of tension. Until information on simple bow making becoms more accessible, bows such as this serve quite well. (The shape is adapted from an illustration in Lynn Elder’s “How to Play the Bowed Psaltery”, and as I developed my bow through a process of trial and error from that initial point, I don’t know how far the similarity carries from there. At any rate thanks to Mr. Elder.)

Materials:

bow — mahogany (or other hardwood 13" × 1 1/4" × 5/8" (or 1/2")
shims — rosewood inlay strip 1" × 1/8"× 1/28"
doweling — 1" lengths of 1/2" and 3/8" diameter dowels
bow hair — approx. 13" length (suggestion..“Chieftain” Nylon Bow Hair available from International Violin Co./1421 Clarkview Road, Suite 118/Baltimore, MD 21209.

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