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Fluorescent Inspection Lamp

Fluorescent Inspection Lamp

by Kent Rayman

Originally published in Guild of American Luthiers Data Sheet #119, 1979 and Lutherie Tools, 1990

 

Materials:
Switch
Small fluorescent bulb
Ballast 115V for 4, 6, or 8W bulb
Starter assembly
Coil telephone receiver cord
Metal chassis box
Rubber grommets (2)

All photos by Kent Rayman.
Rayman-lamp-03

This lamp puts out a lot of even, shadow-free light, and it fits through f-holes. A retractable phone cord works well. Solder the leads right to the lamp’s prongs, then tape (crude, but it works). ◆

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Respacing the ‘Badass’ Bridge

Respacing the ‘Badass’ Bridge

by Philip Mayes

Originally published in Guild of American Luthiers Data Sheet #83, 1978

 

I was asked to recut the saddle slots on a “Badass” adjustable bridge fitted to a Gibson SG. The string spacing on the bridge was narrower than the fingerboard, and the adjustable metal saddles had had slots filed in to hold the strings. These were causing the strings to wear and break very easily.

Instead I filed the saddles to remove the existing slots and cut grooves as shown, using fretsaw, triangular and round files. The grooves lead the strings into the correct position before they finish curving round the bridge. The result is unobtrusive, keeps the strings in the right position and (so I hear) no longer causes breakages.

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Questions: Crystalac

Questions: Crystalac

by Eric Aceto and Alex Meleshenko

Originally published in American Lutherie #59, 1999



Paul Sheridan of Bassendean, Australia asks:

Do you know anyone who is using Crystalac™ and is really happy with it? I have built up an allergy to the “low toxic” lacquer I am currently using and will probably have to change to a water-base lacquer.


Eric Aceto of Ithaca, NY responds:

I started using water-base finishes around 1988 or so when I noticed that even opening a can of nitrocellulose gave me a sore throat. Guess I built up a sensitivity over the years. The current finishes are far superior to what they were back then and I do not hesitate to use the newer formulas on our guitars. I am currently using the Crystalac™ put out by Stew-Mac. It’s a good finish and it is a breeze to apply and touch up. I do prefer to keep it thin and I do not usually put on more than six coats. It is a good hard formula with excellent clarity and color. It is easy to tint, although the color of the finish in the jar is not exactly what you end up with. I guess this is due to the slight milky look of the wet finish. Spray technique is pretty much the same once you get the hang of the viscosity. The ultimate in low toxicity would be to use this with an HVLP system. I would encourage anyone frustrated with the usual lacquer to try this finish, clean their equipment using soap and water, and then see if they want to go back. I never will.

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Calculating Fret Intervals with Spreadsheet Software

Calculating Fret Intervals with Spreadsheet Software

by Wayne Kelly

Originally published in American Lutherie #43, 1994



Luthiers who own or have access to a personal computer will find spreadsheet software useful in calculating fret intervals. Spreadsheet software is commonly used for accounting, budgeting, and presentation of tabular data. It is invaluable for testing “what if” scenarios because a change made to one cell of a spreadsheet will cause a “ripple effect,” automatically changing values in other cells dependent on that cell. This feature of spreadsheet software makes it possible to calculate fret intervals for a given scale length instantly. Change the scale length value and “presto,” another set of fret intervals is automatically and instantly calculated and displayed. Results can be printed if desired. Within a few minutes one could create a book of fret interval tables for dozens of different scale lengths.

I created a spreadsheet to calculate fret intervals using the “fret factors” found in a popular textbook on guitar building (Cumpiano, William R. and Natelson, Jonathan D., Guitarmaking: Tradition and Technology, Rosewood Press, Maine, 1987, p. 268). With fret factors, each fret’s distance from the nut is determined by simply multiplying the fret’s factor by the chosen scale length. My spreadsheet allows one to enter a given scale length, expressed in decimal inches, and it then calculates and displays the distance from the nut to each of 21 frets, as shown in the accompanying figure. The fret intervals are displayed in three columns expressed in centimeters, decimal inches, and sixty-fourths of an inch, respectively.

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Making Kerfed Lining: A Huss & Dalton Shop Story

Making Kerfed Lining: A Huss & Dalton Shop Story

by John Calkin

Originally published in American Lutherie #72, 2002 and Red Book of American Lutherie, Volume Six, 2013



The focus of all my early lutherie work was to stay cheap. Prepping locally obtained alternative wood was time consuming, but back-and-side sets of cherry, birch, and walnut cost almost nothing in cash. This was a time when Indian rosewood sets cost in the mid-$20s, and I never bought any. I did allow myself the one-time luxury of a fine set of koa for $45, but otherwise I stayed away from the tonewood market. Being so destitute, there was no way I was going to pay for commercial lining. I forget the price of lining in 1980, but a guitar’s worth cost more than my wood sets, so I made my own.

Not that it was a work of art. Nor did I care much that my lining was pretty rough. I had scant prospects of selling my instruments, and I wasn’t worried about impressing myself with the interior of my instruments. This had to change as the market opened up and the expectations of guitarists grew accordingly, but initially all my lining had to do was hold the plates to the sides and leave enough material to support the binding and purfling. My early lining left plenty of material.

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