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Violin Q&A, Part One

Violin Q&A, Part One

by George Manno

Originally published in American Lutherie #9, #10, #11, 1987 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume One, 2000



In the last year I have received many letters concerning the repair articles I have written for American Lutherie. For the most part, the writers have thanked me for my willingness to share with the membership. Along with the comments on past articles, there are always a few questions asking my opinion about what to use or where to buy, and so on. I’d like to share some of those questions, along with my replies.


No matter what I use to polish a violin, it never seems to clean it completely. Do you have any suggestions?

I have never found a product that cleans as well as polishes, although many manufacturers claim that their product will do both. Taking into consideration the instrument’s age, type of varnish, and how dirty it is, there are a number of cleaning products that you can use. Example: a French violin, ca. 1875, covered with a thin spirit varnish, with enough caked-on rosin so that ridges have formed on either side of the fingerboard.

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The Case For KTM

The Case For KTM

by Michael Turko

Originally published in American Lutherie #72, 2002



For ten years now I have been building custom guitars, and I have been using KTM waterborne lacquer as my only finish coat for most of that time. I believe it is an excellent choice for the small custom builder for a variety of reasons.

▶ There is no offensive odor or noxious fumes to create problems in residential neighborhoods.
▶ It may be applied by hand without sprayers or other specialized equipment.
▶ It dries extremely fast, and may be buffed to a high gloss within hours (or less) instead of days.
▶ It builds much faster than solvent-based lacquers, and many coats can be applied on the same day.
▶ No special pore or grain fillers are required.
▶ It dries absolutely clear without adding any tint or shade of its own (although tinting maybe added if desired).

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Seedlac

Seedlac

by Nicholas Von Robison

Originally published in Guild of American Luthiers Data Sheet #150, 1980 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume One, 2000



Seedlac resin, when combined with alcohol, gives a magnificent spirit varnish suitable for spraying or French polishing with qualities far superior to its better known cousin shellac. It’s more transparent, faster drying, harder, and more resistant to scuffing and moisture. The latter quality is of particular value as sweaty hands can play havoc on a shellac-based finish on a musical instrument. With all this going for it, it is not well known or used by luthiers to a great extent. The primary reason is that the major paint and varnish manufacturers buy most of the crop for their own needs, leaving little for the small-scale importers.

About 60% of the resin is collected from an area between Calcutta and Central India with lesser amounts coming from Myanmar, Thailand, and Laos. There is a distinct difference in the resin color from different areas. The lac west of Calcutta is yellow or orange, east and south of Calcutta it is red, a pale red in Assam, and a dark red in Thailand. The resin comes from various indigenous trees, primarily kusam (Scheichera trijuga) which has the best color (pale yellow) and quality, but others such as pala (Wrightia tomentosa), ber (Berrya amomilla), and ghont (Bursera serrata). Two crops occur each year, summer and winter, and they revolve around the life cycle of a scale-like insect (Laccifer lacca) which infests the host trees. This small (about the size of an apple seed) red critter was cultivated as early as 80 A.D. for the purplish dye it contains. But not until 1580, in the records of Akbar the Great, do we find any mention of seedlac resin for varnish making.

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Honest Ron’s Lacquer Finishing Technique

Honest Ron’s Lacquer Finishing Technique

by Ron Lira

Originally published in Guild of American Luthiers Data Sheets #262, 1983 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie, Volume One, 2000


Tools and Materials:
High quality spray gun — Binks 69
Respirator and rubber gloves
1/2 h.p. or larger compressor
2 water traps in air line — Amflo 1060
Air regulator for 40 lbs.–50 lbs. static — Binks
Hot plate with water tub
Clean place to spray
Air or electric buffer and pads
     Rodac 717 and Schlegel 875C pads
120-, 220-, 320-, 600-grit sandpaper
     3M Tri-M-ite Fre-cut and wet or dry
Behlen Pore-o-Pac paste wood filler
Sherwin Williams T75C40 Finish lacquer
Sherwin Williams T67F3 Vinyl sanding sealer
Sherwin Williams R7K120 Thinner
Sherwin Williams R7K27 Retarder
Sherwin Williams D1T271 Rubbing compound
Sherwin Williams D1T13 Polishing compound
3-M-05990 Imperial Hand glaze

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Chemical Stains

Chemical Stains

by Michael Darnton

Originally published in American Lutherie #32, 1992 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume Three, 2004



One of the biggest problems for the violin maker trying to replicate the effects of time is the imitation of the color of ancient wood. Even unantiqued instruments benefit from the rich appearance of old, time-darkened wood under a coat of fine varnish.

Chemical stains have the greatest promise for replicating the look of old wood. Unlike aniline and pigment dyes which insert foreign colors into the wood, either in the form of a soluble dye or of a solid pigment, chemical stains cause a color change in the wood itself. The change is both permanent and clean-looking when compared to that of aniline and pigment colors.

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