Posted on June 6, 2024May 14, 2025 by Dale Phillips Opinion Opinion by Harry Fleishman Originally published in American Lutherie #74, 2003 As a builder of many years experience, I have my own methods and views. I try to teach, but more important, I try to learn. We each have our own approach and I’d never want to censor anyone’s right to spread their ideas. At this point in my career it is clear that some ideas may seem wrong, but only seem so because of my own limitations. That said, I do feel a need to respond to a recent article that purports to tell ``the truth,’’ exposing other views as false. John Calkin’s article “The Heretic’s Guide to Alternative Lutherie Woods” in AL#69 offers some very useful information about the working properties of a good assortment of materials. I appreciate the info and will refer to it as I build and teach. However, I think he does a disservice to many luthiers who have worked hard to train their ears and to understand tone. Yes, as John says, “Guitars sound like guitars.” They do not all sound alike, though, as he implies throughout the article. He asserts that, “The concept of tonewood is a hoax.” Then am I a charlatan? I teach that each tonewood has its own qualities that have small but discernible affects on the voice of a guitar. He asks, “Can you tell what a guitar is made of while listening to an unfamiliar recording?” and answers that no one can. Well, I often can. On more than one occasion I have correctly identified the woods used in guitars that I had not seen and was unfamiliar with. On many occasions I have even identified the luthiers who built guitars, based on listening to recordings and recognizing their “voice.” I’d be surprised if many well-trained, thoughtful, and sensitive luthiers cannot do the same. John should not assume that just because he cannot hear these subtleties, no one can. Many people are colorblind, but that does not negate the difference between red and green. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of our premium web content offered to Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 4 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. If you are already a member, login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on June 6, 2024May 23, 2025 by Dale Phillips Questions: Acoustic Guitar Wood Questions: Acoustic Guitar Wood by John Calkin Originally published in American Lutherie #93, 2009 Eric Gran from Norway asks: In the back of my brain, the idea of building guitar(s) is slowly growing. I would like to use as much local wood in my projects as possible. I found John Calkin’s article “The Heretic’s Guide to Alternative Lutherie Woods” enlightening. I can find local spruce, birch, fir, larch, maple, alder, rowan tree (European mountain ash) just to mention those I believe are most suited. Do you believe that a good acoustic guitar could be made only of wood found in Snåsa (the community where I live) in Norway? I understand that the fretboard and bridge need to be made of especially hard wood, so that may be a problem, but could you give me any idea of what properties are demanded? John Calkin from Greenville, VA responds: I encourage your use of native wood species. Processing your own wood is a huge amount of work, but it is also hugely gratifying. Starting with a standing tree will amplify both ends of that statement. But I also encourage you to begin a guitar as soon as possible. You could build several instruments in the time it takes large planks of wood to season. Hardwood from a local source will serve you well. Try to find quartersawn wood if possible, but proceed with your project even if you can’t. Quartered side wood is less likely to distort during bending, though any piece of wood can surprise you. I’ve used birch, maple, cherry, and oak to build beautiful, wonderful instruments, but you’ll have to maintain your resolve against the conservative members of our fraternity who will argue (loudly!) that only traditional wood varieties are worthy of your time. I’d recommend commercially prepared top wood for your first instruments, even though local spruce is available to you, just to put to rest any doubts you may have about the worthiness of your materials. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of our premium web content offered to Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 4 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. If you are already a member, login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on June 6, 2024May 22, 2025 by Dale Phillips Questions: B-String Compensation Questions: B-String Compensation by John Calkin Originally published in American Lutherie #100, 2009 Tom from Ohio asks: I built a parlor guitar for a buddy of mine and it really turned out nice... except. The B string is really sharp. This is a 12-fret guitar with a 24.9" scale length. I added 2.5MM compensation and the action is very low. I further compensated the B string as far as it would go by lengthening its point on the saddle. I’ve really never had this problem before. Is it because of the 12-fret configuration? What’s the fix? John Calkin from Greenville, Virginia replies: Cut a bit of saddle material (bone, or whatever you used) and glue it to the back of the current saddle, but only behind the B string. Let the new piece rest right on the bridge so the saddle won’t be torqued, but don’t glue it to the bridge. Level the new piece with the real saddle, then use a piece of .010" wire under the B string to find the intonation point. Mark the intonation point with a really sharp pencil, then take the saddle out of the bridge, file the bone to the correct intonation point, and use needle files to blend the new bone into the old to make it pretty. This sounds kind of strange but it works fine. In fact, I’ve used this trick to correct intonation on a whole saddle, rather than to fill the slot and recut it to a more accurate position. It’s sort of an emergency measure, but in your case it should be perfectly acceptable if you make it pretty enough. ◆
Posted on March 6, 2024May 14, 2025 by Dale Phillips Making a Weissenborn-Style Guitar Making a Weissenborn-style Guitar by John Calkin previously published in American Lutherie #102, 2010 “You shouldn’t write a Weissenborn story,” said Lamar Scomp, “’cuz I don’t want to build one.” Lamar tends to take everything personally, and the rest of humanity be damned. “You didn’t want to build a dulcimer either, until I twisted your arm. But you had fun with it, didn’t you?” I said. “Yup.” “And didn’t you tell me that playing dulcimer was making you a better guitar player?” “Yeah,” said Lamar suspiciously, like he could see the trap in front of him and knew he was going to step in it anyway. “Well, a Weissenborn is sort of the ultimate dulcimer on its way to becoming a guitar. The plates are flat, but braced like a guitar. My version has no taper to the sides, just like a dulcimer. Since it’s meant to be played with a slide, there are no frets to mess with, and setting the high action is a breeze. And it’s fun to play. I think you should check out some ace players on YouTube. You’ll be impressed.” “I don’t believe nothin’ I see online. It’s all computerized trickery,” he said. “OK, Lamar. But the Weissenborn is your next step on the way to making guitars. I think you need to build one.” Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of our premium web content offered to Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 4 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. If you are already a member, login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on March 3, 2024May 13, 2025 by Dale Phillips Miter Slot Sled Miter Slot Sled by John Calkin Published online by Guild of American Luthiers, March 2024 This jig is more fallout from the week I spent in the last century in a class taught by Charles Fox. Jigs with clamps such as these have been all over my shop since then. On top, the jig is nothing more than a panel of MDF, two lengths of 1/2" threaded rod, a pair of knobs, and two “jaws” cut from steel flat stock. The jaws were placed in a vise and one end was bent into a slight hook with a hammer. As you will see, aluminum might have been a better choice. The underside of the jig is nothing more than randomly placed, recessed tee nuts and a wooden runner that fits nicely into the miter slot of the table saw. The runner left the panel overhanging the blade slightly so that a zero-tolerance saw cut could be made. All layout is done on the object to be cut. Lines are placed on the edge of the jig, clamped down, and gently run through the blade. Rough lumber can be given a clean edge as long as the dimension is within reach of the saw blade. BEWARE OF THE BLADE TOUCHING THE STEEL JAWS. THE RESULTS COULD BE DISASTROUS! Aluminum jaws make much more sense in this context. Note that helper blocks are needed to cut tall stock, in this case a pair of ukulele neck blanks. Make the cut slowly to prevent moving the stock, especially if the blade is less than newly sharpened. Since this is the maximum depth that the saw can cut on this jig, the threaded rods were marked for length with a piece of masking tape, then cut back with a hack saw. ◆