Posted on August 11, 2021March 5, 2024 by Dale Phillips Violin Varnish and Sealers Violin Varnish and Sealers by Graham Caldersmith Originally published as Guild of American Luthiers Data Sheet #276, 1984, and Big Red Book of American Luthierie Volume One, 2000 Probably more unsubstantiated speculation has been written about violin varnish, its effects on the instrument, and the quest for the “lost” Cremonese recipe than about any other of the subtleties of the violin and its behavior. It is true that those who have examined enough violins to appreciate the variety of varnishing systems employed by different makers in different ages cannot but admire the clear golden-brown varnish sometimes grading to a deep red that characterizes 17th–18th century Cremonese instruments. It is also true that varnish preparation and application techniques changed to more durable and convenient ones towards the end of the 18th century when faster drying oil and spirit varnishes were developed to meet the needs of the growing furniture trade, arguably at the expense of transparency and lucidity. So while bearing in mind that the early Cremonese varnishes were not unique to the violin trade, since they appear on fine furniture and wooden ornaments of the same period, we may reasonably inquire as to how important the varnishing techniques used by the Cremonese Masters were to the excellence of the violins they produced. Were the advantages of Cremonese varnishing merely passive, in that they preserved good violins into sublime maturity, or were they also active, conditioning the wood for optimal acoustical behavior? Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of our premium web content offered to Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 4 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. If you are already a member, login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on August 11, 2021March 5, 2024 by Dale Phillips The Travielo The Travielo by Ernest Nussbaum Originally published in American Lutherie #5, 1986 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume One, 2000 Cellists who want to travel with their instruments have a problem: on air trips they must purchase a seat for the cello or take the risk of having it damaged if checked into the baggage compartment, and in most cars it won’t fit into the trunk and thus takes up at least one passenger seat. In other words, it’s too big. For professional cellists traveling to a playing engagement, the purchase of a plane seat is a necessity which at least constitutes a deductible business expense. For symphony musicians on tour there is no problem at all because orchestras have provision for safe shipping of the larger instruments. But for the cellist who would like to practice during a vacation trip or play chamber music with friends at the other end, the expense and bother of taking the cello along often result in its getting left behind. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of our premium web content offered to Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 4 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. If you are already a member, login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on August 11, 2021March 5, 2024 by Dale Phillips Electric Violins: The New Frontier Electric Violins: The New Frontier by George Manno Originally published in American Lutherie #12, 1987 In the past, my contributions to this journal have been of the more traditional subject matter. From repairing cracks to varnish recipes, I lend my knowledge of the violin to all our readers. Although this article is not about the traditional violin, I have the same enthusiasm to share the following information with you. Twenty years ago, electrifying a violin was a simple matter of attaching a DeArmond pickup clamp to the tailpiece and plugging the cord into an amplifier. Not much attention was given to the quality of sound that came out of the speaker. Players were more concerned that the violin could be heard over the drums and other electric instruments. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of our premium web content offered to Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 4 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. If you are already a member, login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on August 11, 2021March 6, 2024 by Dale Phillips Violin Free Plate Mode Tuning Reprised Violin Free Plate Mode Tuning Reprised by Edgar B. Singleton Originally published in American Lutherie #103, 2010 In the early stages of violin building, the outline of the top and back plates are established, as is the contour of the outside surfaces. Wood is removed from the underside of each plate until the thickness of the plate is a millimeter or so thicker than expected to be in the final form. The f-holes are cut; the bass bar and purfling are installed. The time has then come to graduate the plates, i.e., regulate the thickness of the plates in an attempt to assure that the finished violin will have all of the desired characteristics. Some builders “graduate to thickness” by carefully copying thickness measurements from important old violins. They listen to the pitches of tap tones and have learned ways to adjust these pitches. They have also learned to bend and twist the plates in their hands with the goal of assessing elastic properties, using experience to relate these “felt” properties to the finished violin.1 These processes involve as much art as science and require many years of carefully evaluated experience. This experience is very difficult to articulate to the novice builder. One process associated with graduating the plates that is related to tap tones is referred to as “free plate mode tuning.”2 3 4 5 The following exposition is intended to help instrument builders, familiar with the material contained in the above references, understand the basis of free plate mode tuning as it is based on some simple physics and to provide a technique to fine tune each mode (tap tone) individually. The purpose of this paper is to give the builder a new basis on which to visualize where, and to understand why, to remove wood if one wishes to tune the free plates of a violin. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of our premium web content offered to Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 4 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. If you are already a member, login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on August 11, 2021March 6, 2024 by Dale Phillips Bass Crate Bass Crate by Frederick C. Lyman, Jr. Originally published in Guild of American Luthiers Data Sheet #273, 1984 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume One, 2000 Shipping a bass is always a problem because of the size and fragility of the instrument. I’ve had to do this several times and have built crates which did the job in every instance. It’s not my favorite task; I would rather build basses. Sometimes it would probably be best to buy or rent one of the bass trunks that several firms advertise. If you transport your bass a lot, this would be a good (if substantial) investment. But noooo... you’re going to build one yourself. My methods are not the only possible ones and I can’t guarantee that they are the best for you; only that, for me, they worked and the bass came through unharmed. Use plywood framed with strips of solid wood. If the framing is on the outside, the crate will be easier to grab. The plywood should be free of skips or voids in the inner plies which you can spot by looking at the edge. Imported lauan plywood (the stuff that looks like mahogany) is pretty good in this respect. You could use 1/4 " or thicker. For greatest economy, you could find some wall paneling that is scuffed or chipped, for a couple of dollars a sheet. You don’t want this box to be too heavy to handle, but if it is going by air freight (I have found United to be helpful and considerate) you will be paying more for the cubic volume than for the weight. In this instance you would not necessarily save by using thinner materials. For framing, I suggest what is known as 5/4 "×3 ", which actually measures about 1 "×2 1/2 ". Pick out straight pieces with few knots. (Yes, it’s OK if there aren’t any knots at all.) Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of our premium web content offered to Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 4 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. If you are already a member, login for access or contact us to setup your account.
