Posted on June 30, 2024May 14, 2025 by Dale Phillips Meet the Maker: Dmitry Zhevlakov Meet the Maker: Dmitry Zhevlakov by Federico Sheppard Originally published in American Lutherie #89, 2007 I first became acquainted with the name of Russian luthier Dmitry Zhevlakov when I received an inquiry from a guitar maker looking for veneers to duplicate one of his famous rosettes. After some research, I discovered that Dmitry is well known in some parts of the world, such as Paraguay and Australia. In the Soviet days, Dmitry’s family was extremely limited in who they could do business with, but the Internet has done wonders to increase his contacts. Although I attended medical school in Russia before the iron curtain came down, I don’t really speak Russian. Dmitry and I communicate through a translation program, and sometimes interpreters. And his English is getting better all the time. I was impressed with Dmitry’s guitars as well as his decorative work. I decided to visit his shop in Tula, Russia. And when the guitarist I was traveling with had his guitar damaged by the airline, I found that Dmitry’s skills extended to guitar repair too! Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of the Articles Online featured on our website for Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 3 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. MEMBERS: login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on June 30, 2024May 14, 2025 by Dale Phillips The “Corker” Guitar: A Sideport Experiment The “Corker” Guitar: A Sideport Experiment by Alan Carruth Originally published in American Lutherie #94, 2008 Over the past few years there has been something of a trend for cutting holes of various sizes and shapes in the sides of guitars. (Editor’s note: See AL#91 pp. 6–13 for more on soundports.) While a hole in the side of the guitar might or might not directly affect the way the top and back (the main sound-producing surfaces on most guitars) vibrate, it could certainly be expected to affect the vibrations of the air inside the box. I became interested in this when a customer asked if I could build a guitar with a port. Since I’m the sort of guy who likes to have a map when I’m going into new territory, I looked up what information I could find. There was a certain amount on air resonant modes, but not much treating ports, so I decided to do an experiment. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of the Articles Online featured on our website for Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 3 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. MEMBERS: login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on June 30, 2024May 14, 2025 by Dale Phillips Total Flame Out: Retopping a Harp Guitar Total Flame Out: Retopping a Harp Guitar by Harry Fleishman Originally published in American Lutherie #100, 2009 Falling in love causes people to do crazy things. It made me build a harp guitar using a piece of redwood that was so obviously problematic that I should have run from it. But I fell in love with it for its beauty. I should have been faithful to the wonderful straight-grained wood I’d had such success with. But no; I was blinded by its gorgeous curls. Like a C-street politician, I’m paying the price now. Replacing the top on a complicated instrument is no picnic, I can tell you. The harp guitars I’ve made have no actual centerline and no points of symmetry. But once I made the decision to go forward with the retopping, I remembered a cool description of how Taylor Guitars does it. Bob Taylor has the good sense not to trash a guitar just because it doesn’t sound good. He also has the good sense not to sell a guitar that isn’t up to his standards. He also has a CNC machine and interchangeable parts for his guitars. Not I. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of the Articles Online featured on our website for Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 3 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. MEMBERS: login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on June 6, 2024May 14, 2025 by Dale Phillips It Worked for Me: Veneer Scraper It Worked for Me: Veneer Scraper by Eugene Clark Originally published in American Lutherie #73, 2003 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume Seven, 2015 In the first episode of my two-part article on Spanish rosette construction (American Lutherie #71, Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume Six), I described how important the sizing of the veneers is to the whole process, and showed the veneer scraper that I currently use. It uses a Stanley #90 bull-nosed shoulder plane. My first veneer scraper was a plane blade with a simple wooden holder, which, as I mentioned, is the type of tool that one might find in a Spanish shop. Jon Peterson had some questions about that tool, so I made one to show him. The anvil block, opposite the cutting edge of the blade, needs to be hard and stable. I used a scrap of seasoned maple with the end grain (which is harder than long grain) towards the blade. The base and the blade holder are scrap softwood, but any solid, stable wood could be used. The anvil block is screwed to the base and can be removed when it needs to be resurfaced. The larger of the two blocks that hold the blade is glued and screwed to the base. The narrower block is then clamped in position with the blade in place, pilot holes are drilled and screws are installed. The fit of the blade will now be too tight, but by backing out those screws a little, the blade will slide freely, yet very little tightening of the wing nuts will hold the blade firmly. The width of the gap between the blade and the anvil block is adjusted by tapping with a hammer on the end of the tool or on the exposed end of the blade. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of our premium web content offered to Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 4 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. If you are already a member, login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on June 6, 2024May 8, 2025 by Dale Phillips End Mill Cutters End Mill Cutters by Bruce Scotten Originally published in Guild of American Luthiers Data Sheet #149, 1980 and Lutherie Tools, 1990 The use of routers to cut channels for binding, purfling, and rosettes is quite common. One problem associated with this tool is tearing and chipping caused by the use of standard router bits. A simple solution is to replace router bits with end mill cutters. Their advantages are: the increased number of cuts per revolution (4, 6, or even 8 flutes or edges, compared to 1 or 2 on router bits); plus the right-hand cut, left-hand spiral option which cuts with a downward motion that prevents the hairing and tearing caused by right-hand spiral lifting, and the slapping effect of straight router bits. End mills are more expensive than Stanley or Sears router bits. Solid carbide, 1/4" shank, 1/4" cutter, right-hand cut, left-hand spiral end mills are about $20. However, decreased down time and improved product performance make end mills a sensible alternative for the serious luthier. End mills are used more in metal working than wood working. Therefore any machine shop should be able to direct you to a jobber specializing in cutters. Johnson Carbide products in Saginaw, Michigan is a reliable source for end mills if you have difficulty locating them in your area. ◆
