Posted on July 7, 2024May 9, 2025 by Dale Phillips Questions: Unified Repair Pricing Questions: Unified Repair Pricing Originally published in American Lutherie #25, 1991 John Kitakis from Hendersonville, NC writes: I’ve enjoyed toying with the idea of unified repair pricing throughout North America. To me, it seems unprofessional to have a wide variety of charges for the same repair. I suppose everyone has different needs and wants, and overheads vary, so this “discrepancy” may never be resolved. The repairman down the road (who says he doesn’t need much) will continue to charge $100 for a fret job, and $20 to reglue the bridge. I continue to have plenty of business, so I’ll continue to charge more. Below is a list of a few prices. My complete list is available upon request. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of the Articles Online featured on our website for Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 3 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. MEMBERS: login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on June 30, 2024May 14, 2025 by Dale Phillips Total Flame Out: Retopping a Harp Guitar Total Flame Out: Retopping a Harp Guitar by Harry Fleishman Originally published in American Lutherie #100, 2009 Falling in love causes people to do crazy things. It made me build a harp guitar using a piece of redwood that was so obviously problematic that I should have run from it. But I fell in love with it for its beauty. I should have been faithful to the wonderful straight-grained wood I’d had such success with. But no; I was blinded by its gorgeous curls. Like a C-street politician, I’m paying the price now. Replacing the top on a complicated instrument is no picnic, I can tell you. The harp guitars I’ve made have no actual centerline and no points of symmetry. But once I made the decision to go forward with the retopping, I remembered a cool description of how Taylor Guitars does it. Bob Taylor has the good sense not to trash a guitar just because it doesn’t sound good. He also has the good sense not to sell a guitar that isn’t up to his standards. He also has a CNC machine and interchangeable parts for his guitars. Not I. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of the Articles Online featured on our website for Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 3 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. MEMBERS: login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on June 6, 2024May 5, 2025 by Dale Phillips Accelerator for Superglue and More Accelerator for Superglue and More by Chris Pile Originally published in American Lutherie #10, 1987 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume One, 2000 I would like to inform fellow members of recent developments in the cyanoacrylate area of my repair business. The makers of Jet have added two new products to their line which have quickly become indispensable in the completion of my daily work. The old, reliable Jet and Super-Jet have been joined by Slo-Jet and Jet-Set. If you remember, Jet is the familiar thin, quick-setting superglue, and Super-Jet is thicker and slower to dry. Slo-Jet is even thicker and much slower to dry, consequently filling gaps and holes even better than was previously possible. As a matter of fact, it dries so slowly I’ve no idea how long it would take to cure if I wasn’t using the other new product — Jet-Set. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of our premium web content offered to Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 4 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. If you are already a member, login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on June 6, 2024May 28, 2025 by Dale Phillips Questions: Guitar Insurance Questions: Guitar Insurance by Cyndy Burton Originally published in American Lutherie #82, 2005 Garrett Burton of Portland, OR asks: I’m planning to pick up repair work from guitar stores and work in my home shop. I’ve been told I need insurance for the guitars when they are in my possession as well as liability insurance. What can I expect to pay per month? Cyndy Burton (no relation) of Portland, OR responds: The only business insurance I’m aware of designed for musical instrument businesses is Heritage Insurance Services (215-322-8705; his@heritage-ins-services.com; www.heritage-ins-services.com/national.htm). The cost will depend on many factors, but in my experience, it is reasonable and well worth it.
Posted on July 1, 2022May 23, 2025 by Dale Phillips Questions: Damaged Ironbird Questions: Damaged Ironbird by John Calkin Originally published in American Lutherie #94, 2008 Adam from the Internet asks: I have a B.C. Rich 2003 Platinum Pro Ironbird. Got seriously damaged in shipping. The body has five cracks, in some places that I don’t know are even possible to fix. I play technical death metal, black metal, Gothenburg death metal, and all those styles, my favorite being neo-classical metal. The body is agathis. I have an EMG Zakk Wylde set in it. (I could care less about Zakk Wylde. The set, though, is the standard 85/81 combo.) There is a large crack that goes down the middle of the body from where the neck goes on (bolt on neck — the action is great though), then two cracks around the cutaway near the neck (I need to have that so I can have fast access to the 24th fret). There’s another on the back that’s spread just past the serial number plate. I think I’d just want to fix it so I could play it again. I’m not at all concerned about looks right now. B.C. Rich 2003 Platinum Pro Ironbird. Photo by Adam G. John Calkin from Greenville, Virginia responds: Go to a hobby shop and buy water-thin superglue. Also buy superglue accelerator. Take all the hardware and electronics off the guitar. Mask off the cracks with a heavy coat of good car wax — don’t use tape. Push/tap the broken wood back into alignment and trickle in some superglue. It will wick into the crack. If it wants to run out of the crack into a cavity or out the other side of the guitar, use some accelerator to solidify it at the point of runout, not at the fill point of the crack. Keep trickling the glue in. Work slowly and keep looking for exit points for the glue so you don’t make a big mess on the other side of the guitar or something. Keep wiping the glue buildup off the wax and rewax as many times as you have to to keep the paint surfaces clean. Eventually the wood will be completely sealed inside and the glue will stop seeping in. It’s almost like welding wood. If you’ve been careful, there should only be a line of glue right at the crack to clean up. Scrape it clean with a razor blade, sand level with 1000 grit wet/dry paper, polish with automotive rubbing compound, and you are good to go. I’d bet a lot of money that your guitar will be as sound as it ever was if you do this right. I also have to warn you that I’ve seen guys make a horrible mess of their guitars trying to do this, with glue drips and buildup everywhere. But unless they ran glue into the pots or something, their guitars were fixed. If this sounds intimidating, find a pro to do it. It’s not that big of a deal, you just have to be very careful.
