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It Worked for Me: Hardanger Fiddle Pegs

It Worked for Me: Hardanger Fiddle Pegs

by David Golber

Originally published in American Lutherie #83, 2005 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume Seven, 2015



I do a lot of work on Hardanger fiddles. One way in which these instruments differ from violins is the pegs. In the violin world, pegs are disposable. When they wear out, you replace them and throw away the old ones. But in a fine Hardanger fiddle, the pegs are decorated work of the maker of the instrument, and must not be thrown away.

But what do you do when the old decorated pegs are severely worn? There must be other instruments and circumstances with similar problems, so maybe the question is interesting to more than the tiny circle of Hardanger fiddle aficionados. Here’s one method for putting new ebony shafts on old decorated pegs.

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Questions: Adjustable Truss Rods

Questions: Adjustable Truss Rods

by John Calkin

Originally published in American Lutherie #74, 2003 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume Seven, 2015



Steven D’Antonio of Bellingham, Massachusetts asks:

I have been using the Hot Rod 2-way Adjustable Truss Rods made by Stewart MacDonald for several years with good results. I have been placing them dead center in the neck without any problems that I am aware of. But recently I read something by John Calkin in AL stating that since the treble strings are under more tension than the bass, some luthiers offset their truss rods toward the treble to compensate for the imbalance in tensions. I asked Stew-Mac and also LMII for their advice, and they both suggested dead center placement for the truss rod. If you suggest offsetting towards the treble, how much is enough?


John Calkin of Greenville, Virginia answers:

It’s pretty common to find that when the neck of a guitar with some age on it is adjusted, the treble side still has a slight bow after the bass side of the fingerboard is flat. Pulling out the bow on the treble side will often fret out some of the bass notes nearest the nut. Usually this is a minor affair, but occasionally the only fix is some fret filing or even a refret after the fretboard has been trued. I tend to think of this as an electric guitar problem, but that may only be because electric guitarists are more obsessive about having the lowest possible action.

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Product Review: Fossil Ivory Bridge Pins

Product Review: Fossil Ivory Bridge Pins

by Harry Fleishman

Originally published in American Lutherie #74, 2003 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume Seven, 2015



Fossil-Ivory Bridge Pins

A beautiful guitar sounds better than a merely nice looking one. An expertly appointed guitar sounds better than an adequately detailed guitar. An expert setup sounds better than one that is merely competent. Why? Because our eye prepares our ear. Our sense of detail tells us whether the guitar was finished with passion or with efficiency. Our hands tell us if the guitar will respond to the range of music we need to express.

Not only do these assessments affect our ear and the sound we expect to hear, they affect our desire to purchase a guitar. Virtually all guitarists make decisions about a guitar before they even pick it up. If a guitarist is looking for a new guitar and has a wall of them to choose from, he or she may be drawn unconsciously towards the attractive guitar. Clearly attractive is a relative term and people’s ideas of attractive vary. This is not a cynical point, however. We are interested in selling our guitars so that we may continue to build and learn and grow as luthiers. Even at the moment a client opens the case of their custom-made guitar for the first time upon receiving it after their long wait, they will be more positively disposed and prepared for good tone if their guitar looks and feels good. Of course, none of this matters if the guitar cannot deliver the goods. However, unless the client is expecting folk art, they will appreciate the extra details that separate the custom-built, handmade guitar from even its high-end store-bought counterpart. These details extend from the finishing touches on the fingerboard all the way down to the choice of bridge pins.

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Questions: Digital Photography

Questions: Digital Photography

by Byron Will, and R.M. Mottola

Originally published in American Lutherie #81, 2005 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume Seven, 2015



James from Cincinnati, Ohio asks:

I’m switching from film to digital photography. I’d like to take photos to send to clients during construction and post on my website. I’d also like to take really good studio shots for my portfolio. I know this can’t be answered comprehensively in the Questions column. Right now I’m looking for tips and/or directions to pursue.


Byron Will of Portland, Oregon answers:

My experience taking photos of my harpsichords and other instruments and teaching digital photography at the community college here might be of use. You don’t mention if you’ve already purchased your digital camera. If not, I recommend you check out these websites that I’ve found very helpful for determining what to buy: www.dpreview.com and www.steves-digicams.com. Bear in mind that the quality of the optics is as important as the number of megapixels.

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Mirror with Penlight

Mirror with Penlight

by Tim Olsen

Originally published in Guild of American Luthiers Data Sheet #22, 1976 and Lutherie Tools, 1990

 

Simply tape a penlight flashlight (Eveready Heavy duty will do), to a dentist-style 1" round mirror with a 6" or so handle. Position the light to get a 1" spot of light and so that the beam is entirely reflected into the instrument to be inspected. Sight down the barrel of the penlight. The area you see in the mirror will always be full illuminated. This was Dale Kormo’s idea. ◆