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Blood, Sweat & Sap

Blood, Sweat & Sap

by Nicholas Von Robison

Originally published as Guild of American Luthiers Quarterly Volume 10, #2, 1982



Sometime last spring I dreamed I was back in the Northwest for a short vacation. I had gone there to enjoy the trees - and was stunned to learn there weren’t any! All the forests had been paved over for condos, trailer parks, ski lodges, and fast food joints.

I don’t know just what triggered such a nightmare. I have learned in recent years that beer and pizza don’t go down as easily after midnight as they used to. More likely it was something I had read. I often read things (and more often write things) that are equally indigestible. But never after midnight.

No, it was probably the conversation with a luthier friend of mine, a splinter group agnostic who confessed to me that he really doesn’t believe that trees have a life of their own, that they speak to you in voices loud and soft, or that they should be approached as shrines. He tossed off Torres, Stradivari, Orville, C.F.; had only started his preachings on epoxy, graphite, fiberglass and polymers before I straight-armed him with a braced soundboard and tapped out a few tones. He recoiled of course, but on his way out the door parleyed that he could never accept the divinity of the old masters although they were great teachers. I’ll never attend woodshop vespers with that fellow again!

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The Case for Using Natural Dyes

The Case for Using Natural Dyes

by Nicholas Von Robison

Originally published in Guild of American Luthiers Quarterly Volume 11, #1, 1983 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie, Volume One, 2000



Luthiers do not need to color their raw materials as much as other woodworkers. We use fine woods that can stand on their own merit without any help from the dye pot. But now and then we do find a need for dyes: for example, for rosettes, bindings, taking grey streaks from ebony, enhancing the color cast of wood, and tinting finishes.

In 1856 young William Henry Perkin was trying to synthesize quinine but instead wound up with a black tarry mess. This was mauveine, the first of the coal-tar derived dyes. By 1900 the aniline dyes (coal-tar derived) had virtually replaced all other dye materials. Up to this point, dyeing was done with naturally occurring materials and was more of an art than a science. With aniline dyes results were predictable, repeatable, stable, nonfading, and a heck of a lot simpler. There was bound to be a reaction, of course. The art of natural dyeing is returning to the amateur weavers and textile artists; I doubt if woodworkers will be far behind.

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Questions: Walnut Log

Questions: Walnut Log

by Bruce Harvie

Originally published in American Lutherie #101, 2010

 

Lee Pendergrast from Etowah, Tennessee asks:

I know where a hundred-plus-year-old 20"×12' walnut log is in the river near me. How would it need to be sawn for best use in lutherie? This log has been in a place where the river rises and falls often, leaching out the tannins. I’ve read that the very best wood for instruments has been soaked in water; microbial action and leaching produce hollow cells which are more resonant.


Bruce Harvie from Olga, Washington
replies:

Walnut can be a fine wood for instruments, but unless it’s highly figured (which it probably isn’t), not all that valuable. It has been used historically by many companies, most notably Epiphone for its archtop guitars. An article in Reader’s Digest many years ago contributed to the public’s perception that walnut logs are extremely valuable, but in the world of tonewoods, this is not all that true unless the tree is highly figured, in which case it can be highly sought after. But these figured trees are rare indeed, and usually found in orchards in California, not in the indigenous black walnut forests in the Midwestern USA.

Another tonewood myth created by the press (mostly by a few publicity-hungry companies on Lake Superior) is the high value placed on logs soaked in water and the quality of the wood produced. It may or may not be true, but to use it as a ploy to place exorbitant prices on logs hauled from the bottom of lakes is disingenuous, in my opinion. A log soaked in water or floating in a river for a hundred years is just as likely to suffer defects from this sort of treatment.

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Questions: Wenge

Questions: Wenge

by John Calkin

Originally published in American Lutherie #61, 2000

 

See also,
Questions: African Wenge by Jeffrey R. Elliott

 

John Calkin of Greenville, Virginia responds to Milan Sabljic’s question regarding wenge and Willy Ware’s questions regarding superglue’s interaction with finishes.

Wenge is hard, yet very brittle. Splinters are a constant threat. There’s also a striking difference in hardness between the wood from different seasons. I recently made a copy of a Gibson L-00 with wenge sides that were sort of quartered and a back that was flatsawn. Keeping the back free of ripples was a nasty task involving a lot of block sanding. It’s almost as bad as softwood in this respect. Wenge is also one of those surprise woods that attack some people. The man who gave me my first piece of wenge said it gave him an intense headache when he resawed it. The exact same board had no affect on me.

Superglue drop fills: At Huss & Dalton we do drop fills on conversion varnish all the time, and they are invisible. In my own shop I’ve found that with lacquer and Crystalac it should be used between coats so that it can be aggressively sanded flat, otherwise the fills are devilishly hard to hide. Fills used on the surface usually leave a witness mark around the perimeter. Even when the feather-out is perfect and the surface looks and feels dead-on after flat sanding, the fill is often visible after buffing. Finish repairs done in superglue look much better than the ding or scratch, but they are seldom perfectly invisible. Awhile back I resurrected a much-abused mahogany parlor guitar of low value. The back was cracked and dented, and I did all the repair work with dozens of puddles of superglue. The back stabilized wonderfully and looked perfectly flat after sanding. After French polishing it looked like a new guitar, but after a couple days every fill telegraphed through the shellac. More wetsanding and polishing followed, but the fills kept coming through. I finally had to tone down the gloss to make the work acceptable. My customer was thrilled, but I wasn’t happy at all. I’ve decided that the smallest amounts of CA glue possible should be used on instruments, and if possible it should be mixed with sanding dust to stabilize it. The stuff is a life saver, but it’s not quite God’s gift to lutherie. ◆

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Questions: African Wenge

Questions: African Wenge

by Jeffrey R. Elliott

Originally published in American Lutherie #59, 1999

 

See also,
Questions: Wenge by John Calkin

 

Milan Sabljic of Belgrade, Yugoslavia asks:

I would like to know is it safe to use African wenge to make classic guitar bridges.


Jeff Elliott of Portland, OR
responds:

I’ve never tried it, but I don’t see any reason not to. It’s dense, it sounds (taps) well, and it’s beautiful. Also, Gibson used it for steel string guitar bridges in the 1970s. I think it would work very well. ◆