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Meet the Maker: Mervyn Davis

Meet the Maker: Mervyn Davis

by Rodney Stedall

Originally published in American Luthier #90, 2007



I first met Mervyn in 1998 at his old farm shed workshop in the countryside just outside Pretoria. I had just started my first instrument and had a need to ask questions of someone with experience in building stringed instruments. I found Mervyn to be a deep thinker, very knowledgeable, and willing to share with me the answers to my questions. Mervyn’s knowledge and insight into stringed instruments stems from many years of self-inspired building and innovation. Most South African luthiers like myself can claim to have gone through the Mervyn Davis school at some stage of their building career. The interview below serves to prove Mervyn’s willingness to share his years of experience freely with others.


Mervyn, you have thirty-plus years of stringed instrument building experience. Can you tell us what instruments you have made? Guitars, violins, lutes, electrics, archtops, and mandolins of every description. But there are hundreds that I will regretfully never get around to making. My curiosity is still drawing me deeper into the endless well of questions and answers that experimentation offers and which, I am sure, is exactly what got all of us luthiers into the craft to begin with.

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Total Flame Out: Retopping a Harp Guitar

Total Flame Out: Retopping a Harp Guitar

by Harry Fleishman

Originally published in American Lutherie #100, 2009



Falling in love causes people to do crazy things. It made me build a harp guitar using a piece of redwood that was so obviously problematic that I should have run from it. But I fell in love with it for its beauty. I should have been faithful to the wonderful straight-grained wood I’d had such success with. But no; I was blinded by its gorgeous curls. Like a C-street politician, I’m paying the price now.

Replacing the top on a complicated instrument is no picnic, I can tell you. The harp guitars I’ve made have no actual centerline and no points of symmetry. But once I made the decision to go forward with the retopping, I remembered a cool description of how Taylor Guitars does it. Bob Taylor has the good sense not to trash a guitar just because it doesn’t sound good. He also has the good sense not to sell a guitar that isn’t up to his standards. He also has a CNC machine and interchangeable parts for his guitars. Not I.

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Questions: 12 String Acoustic Guitar Plans

Questions: 12 String Acoustic Guitar Plans

by John Calkin

Originally published in American Lutherie #85, 2006



Robin Walke of Kent, England, UK asks:

I am looking for construction plans for a 12-string acoustic guitar. The style of instrument I like is either a Guild F Series or the Martin D-12-28. I have looked all over the net without any luck. Any help you can offer will be appreciated.


John Calkin responds:

A couple sources of 12-string plans are: Elderly Instruments (www.elderly.com/books/cats/611.htm) and International Luthiers Supply (www.internationalluthiers.com/instrumentplans.php). However, you could always get a 6-string plan and beef it up a little.

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Questions: 12 String Acoustic Guitar Plans

by John Calkin

Originally published in American Lutherie #85, 2006



Robin Walke of Kent, England, UK asks:

I am looking for construction plans for a 12-string acoustic guitar. The style of instrument I like is either a Guild F Series or the Martin D-12-28. I have looked all over the net without any luck. Any help you can offer will be appreciated.


John Calkin responds:

A couple sources of 12-string plans are: Elderly Instruments (www.elderly.com/books/cats/611.htm) and International Luthiers Supply (www.internationalluthiers.com/instrumentplans.php). However, you could always get a 6-string plan and beef it up a little.

Strings for 12-string guitars have gotten so light that I don't believe much beefing up is necessary. Forty years ago everyone knew not to tune their 12-strings up to pitch, but so many players have insisted on it that string sets have gotten very light. It's probably enough to use a standard brace pattern, but not scallop any braces.

It's common practice to build 12-strings with a shorter scale length and twelve-fret necks, both intended to keep the guitar from torquing out of shape. Huss & Dalton follows both practices. And lest anyone worry about underbracing their 12-string, the steel-string books by Sloane and Young both contain material on morphing their dreadnoughts into 12-string models.

At H&D we've made only a few 12-strings and they were on the smaller CM body but without a cutaway. We made everything heavier on the first one, and I knew before I put it together that it would be way overbuilt. Fortunately it sounded OK, though it was quiet. Succeeding instruments have each gotten lighter until we reached the above formula. The red spruce bracing we use is often very stiff, which might make some difference, but I've also seen some brutally stiff Sitka brace stock. I think I'd use the stiffest stock I could find and use a normal pattern rather than use some random stock and try some extra braces with unknown tonal characteristics. We also left the top a bit thicker, and we left that factor consistent while we varied the size of the braces.

There's also the Leo Kottke school where heavy strings are used but tuned way down, perhaps all the way to C. I have no experience with this but would guess that detuned heavy strings would have about the same tension as light gauges tuned to standard pitch. ◆

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Questions: Guitar Rib Depth

Questions: Guitar Rib Depth

by R.M. Mottola

Originally published in American Lutherie #85, 2006

 

Mark Korsten of Hastings-on-Hudson, NY asks:

The article concerning how the rib depth of guitars should be adjusted when plates are domed was clearly written and illustrated (AL#84). I truly appreciate the insights offered by author R.M. Mottola. Being a neophyte luthier, however, I have what is probably a naive question. How does changing the depth of the guitar’s ribs modify the manner in which the bindings are fitted to the binding ledge? It’s a fairly easy operation to bend the binding when the plates are flat. However, when the depth of the ribs are varied, doesn’t that introduce another plane to the geometry? Do you simply use more flexible, thinner bindings or stronger binding tape to keep things tightly apposed in the ledge?


R.M. Mottola
responds:

Although the doming of the plates means that the side depth of the ribs must be varied so the ribs and plates can be glued, this type of construction has little effect on binding. The ledges can be routed using a router resting on the plate or inverted in a router table. In either case the doming is so slight that the routing can be done just as if the plates were flat. And although the bindings must be bent vertically to accommodate the varying rib depth, the amount is so small as to be inconsequential. ◆

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Questions: Jig for Oval Rosettes

Questions: Jig for Oval Rosettes

by R.M. Mottola

Originally published in American Lutherie #97, 2009

 

Greg Pacetti of Fairbanks, Alaska asks:

I’m in pursuit of some kind of jig for oval rosettes.


The Questions column editor
responds:

Probably the single best source of info on cutting oval rosette channels appeared in the American Lutherie article “Making Oval Mandolin Rosettes” by Jonathon Peterson, et al. (AL#41 p. 34, BRBAL4 p. 140). In it, seven builders describe their methods. ◆