Posted on July 1, 2024July 9, 2024 by Dale Phillips Letter: John Calkin Article in AL#99 on Spanish Neck Style Letter: John Calkin Article in AL#99 on Spanish Neck Style by David Freeman Originally published in American Lutherie #102, 2010 Hello Tim — After reading John Calkin’s article in AL#99, I would like to add to the discussion of neck rake. It is true that building in the Spanish integral-neck style allows everything to be attached flat. The top is held flat, more to get the sides on at 90° than to get the neck rake proper. As soon as the body is off the form, the top rises in a curve, depending on the bracing style and relative humidity. These deviations will affect final neck set. The full-size side-view drawing John discusses is a valuable exercise to determine angles to aim for in neck rake. The variable of top arch is the most difficult to determine. In the Spanish style, I will allow 1/16"–1/8" for top arch. This varies with top graduation and brace straightness or taper on the glue edge. Both will add to top arch. I also keep my relative humidity between 40%–50% when assembling the body. I try to dry the top to 25%–30% humidity when I am bracing them. This allows the top to swell considerably and have a lot of shrink before it cracks in dry conditions. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of our premium web content offered to Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 4 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. If you are already a member, login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on June 30, 2024September 17, 2024 by Dale Phillips Construction of the Colombian Tiple Construction of the Colombian Tiple by Anamaria Paredes Garcia and R.M. Mottola Originally published in American Lutherie #90, 2007, Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume Three, 2004 American Lutherie #82 featured an article and plan for the Colombian tiple by Bogotá luthier Alberto Paredes. This is a companion article to that one, featuring a detailed description of how the tiple is constructed in Sr. Paredes’ shop. The design of the tiple is heavily influenced by that of the classical guitar, but as it was not directly descended from the classical, this instrument has unique characteristics. With its multiple courses of steel strings, the construction of the tiple has to be able to withstand much higher static string tension than a classical guitar. The top is cut from bookmatched spruce, nominally 3MM thick. The two halves are generally cut out on the bandsaw at the same time, as shown in Photo 1. The center seam edges are jointed, first on the jointer (Photo 2). Following machine jointing the top halves are finished up on the shooting board using a hand plane. Note that the halves are simply pressed by hand to hold them down on the board during shooting (Photo 3). Glue is applied to the center seam surfaces (Photo 4) which are then clamped using simple cauls to a flat, waxed gluing board (Photo 5). Once the glue is dry the squeeze-out is stripped off the back side of the top. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of the Articles Online featured on our website for Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 3 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. MEMBERS: login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on June 30, 2024September 17, 2024 by Dale Phillips Grading on the Curves Grading on the Curves: Fitting Bars and Bridges on Archtop Guitars by Steve Andersen from his 2006 GAL Convention workshop Originally published in American Lutherie #91, 2007 The first thing I’ll show you today is how I fit tone bars to the top. Then I’ll talk about fitting the base of a bridge to a top, first with this router jig that indexes off the top and gets me really close to the final shape, then moving on to the final fitting. I brought some extra materials if anyone wants to try hand-fitting an ebony bridge or a tone bar. I use the term tone bar, because I think of braces as being structural. If you built a flattop guitar without braces, it would just fold up. An archtop could be built without braces and it would hold up fine. The archtop’s bars are not so much for structure, so I call them tone bars. One thing that helps me in the fitting process is that my arching is very consistent from guitar to guitar. The arching templates for my guitars started out based on a D’Angelico New Yorker, and have evolved over the years to what I’m using today. So while I have several body sizes, they have similarities based on what I’ve found works well for my sound. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of the Articles Online featured on our website for Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 3 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. MEMBERS: login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on June 30, 2024January 6, 2025 by Dale Phillips The MacRostie Mandolin Deflection Jig The MacRostie Mandolin Deflection Jig by Don MacRostie from his 2004 GAL Convention workshop Originally published in American Lutherie #94, 2008 The mandolin world is small enough that if you’re even thinking about building one, you probably already know who Don MacRostie is. Don is an inventor, and he’s done more for Stewart-MacDonald than we will ever hear about. He’s been making Red Diamond mandolins for two decades now. At the 2004 GAL Convention Don discussed one of his research tools and told us how he applies it to his construction process to make the sound of his finished instruments more consistent and predictable. — John Calkin At the GAL Convention in 2001, Charles Fox floated the idea of teaching a mandolin building class at his American School of Lutherie. As a result, I taught a two week class, building A-style mandolins from scratch. The only thing we started with was thickly precarved oversize tops and backs. Everything else we made totally from scratch. It was a great experience. Peggy Stuart, a student in the class, documented the experience in a series of American Lutherie articles (AL#75–AL#79). Tim Olsen asked me to demonstrate and explain the plate-deflection machine we used in the class at this convention, so that’s why we’re all here. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of the Articles Online featured on our website for Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 3 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. MEMBERS: login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on June 30, 2024September 17, 2024 by Dale Phillips Electric Guitar Setup Electric Guitar Setup by Erick Coleman and Elliot John-Conry from their 2006 GAL Convention workshop Originally published in American Lutherie #98, 2009 Guitar companies can only set up their guitars to a certain level and still be cost effective. So even a lot of brand new guitars are brought to our shop to be super set up. Since Erick works for Stewart-MacDonald and we both work in Dan Erlewine’s shop, most of the tools and materials we’re going to mention today are available from Stew-Mac. We do all the neck work on the neck jig. This jig simulates the guitar under string tension. If you simply remove the strings, set the guitar on your bench, tweak the truss rod until everything looks level, then proceed to level the frets, you may find that once it is strung again your leveling job has gone to hell. You haven’t accounted for the abnormalities that string tension usually puts in the neck, and neither have you accounted for the effects of gravity differences between the guitar lying flat on your bench and the guitar in playing position. So we not only use the jig to simulate string tension, we tilt the guitar into playing position before the jig is adjusted. We use about a 70° angle to simulate playing position, since few of the guitar players we know have a stomach flat enough to hold the guitar at a 90° angle to the planet. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of the Articles Online featured on our website for Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 3 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. MEMBERS: login for access or contact us to setup your account.
