Posted on June 6, 2024January 17, 2025 by Dale Phillips Letter: Side Soundhole Guitar Letter: Side Soundhole Guitar by Marc Connelly Originally published in American Lutherie #93, 2008 Dear GAL Family, Thank you Cyndy Burton for the exploration of side-ported instruments. It was a terrific affirmation for this most interesting fenestration option. Like Mr. Montelone, at some point I laid my head on the side of my old Martin, strummed, and wondered how to get more of that big wood and bronze sound into my face. I started experimenting with a “side hole” variant, and it changed the way I think about what I am doing — not because it was “better,” but because it was clearly different in a thought-provoking way. In fact, this exercise has finally purged the word “better” from my lutherie vocabulary, and that’s a good thing. My side-hole instruments (which I call “Atlas”) are from the same plantilla as my front-hole models, so I can make some general comparisons. At first, the Atlas models seemed a bit too percussive and weighted toward the bass. So I made some small modifications in the way I tune the box and tamed the bass. The percussive nature of these guitars is simply a component of getting a more direct blast of wavy air into the player’s face. I have come to like this. Several Atlas owners have agreed it has an appeal and have readily adapted to it. But a truly freakazoid experience is to stick your left ear in the hole and play! There isn’t a prewar D-45 on the planet that sounds like that! Until I read Montelone’s article, I never even considered the possibility of weakening the side. What was I (not) thinking! None have folded up, but future Atlas models will have some consideration for this possibility. Fusion jazz player Don Mock owns an Atlas and loves it. Don enjoys having people ask “What’s that?!” Of the folks who play my guitars with some interest in commissioning one, the Atlas is always the first off the rack. But guitar players are an amazingly conservative lot, I find. Selling a side-hole guitar is like selling a blonde guitar. You are either open to them or you are not. It is personally rewarding to watch the tug of war between the conventional and the unconventional. ◆ Photo by Marc Connelly.
Posted on June 6, 2024January 16, 2025 by Dale Phillips Questions: Jig for Oval Rosettes Questions: Jig for Oval Rosettes by R.M. Mottola Originally published in American Lutherie #97, 2009 Greg Pacetti of Fairbanks, Alaska asks: I’m in pursuit of some kind of jig for oval rosettes. The Questions column editor responds: Probably the single best source of info on cutting oval rosette channels appeared in the American Lutherie article “Making Oval Mandolin Rosettes” by Jonathon Peterson, et al. (AL#41 p. 34, BRBAL4 p. 140). In it, seven builders describe their methods. ◆
Posted on June 6, 2024January 15, 2025 by Dale Phillips Banjo Fifth Peg Press Banjo Fifth Peg Press by John M. Colombini Originally published as Guild of American Luthiers Data Sheet #207, 1982 and Lutherie Tools, 1990 Procedure: Make a bushing from a 3/4"×3/8" piece of steel or brass round by drilling a 7/32" hole and countersinking one end. Round off the bottom of a 4" C clamp screw so it seats in teh countersunk hole in the bushing centering the clamp. Cut a hardwood block 2"×1 5/8"×1 5/8" cutout to fit the banjo neck. I use a contour gauge or my actual size templet. Apply 1/16" piece of leather to the cutout using contact cement. The drawing should explain the usage. The important part is to be sure the bushing is longer than the shaft of the tuning peg. Add spacers between the bushing and the peg shaft if you should come across a longer shaft or make a slightly longer bushing. ◆
Posted on June 6, 2024January 21, 2025 by Dale Phillips It Worked for Me: Veneer Scraper It Worked for Me: Veneer Scraper by Eugene Clark Originally published in American Lutherie #73, 2003 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume Seven, 2015 In the first episode of my two-part article on Spanish rosette construction (American Lutherie #71, Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume Six), I described how important the sizing of the veneers is to the whole process, and showed the veneer scraper that I currently use. It uses a Stanley #90 bull-nosed shoulder plane. My first veneer scraper was a plane blade with a simple wooden holder, which, as I mentioned, is the type of tool that one might find in a Spanish shop. Jon Peterson had some questions about that tool, so I made one to show him. The anvil block, opposite the cutting edge of the blade, needs to be hard and stable. I used a scrap of seasoned maple with the end grain (which is harder than long grain) towards the blade. The base and the blade holder are scrap softwood, but any solid, stable wood could be used. The anvil block is screwed to the base and can be removed when it needs to be resurfaced. The larger of the two blocks that hold the blade is glued and screwed to the base. The narrower block is then clamped in position with the blade in place, pilot holes are drilled and screws are installed. The fit of the blade will now be too tight, but by backing out those screws a little, the blade will slide freely, yet very little tightening of the wing nuts will hold the blade firmly. The width of the gap between the blade and the anvil block is adjusted by tapping with a hammer on the end of the tool or on the exposed end of the blade. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of our premium web content offered to Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 4 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. If you are already a member, login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on June 6, 2024January 17, 2025 by Dale Phillips Questions: Thickness Measuring Tool Questions: Thickness Measuring Tool by Tom Nelligan and R.M. Mottola Originally published in American Lutherie #92, 2007 Georges E. Vougioukalakis from Athens, Greece asks: In my experimentation and research on double-top guitar construction I find a need for an instrument that can measure the thickness of the outermost skin of the top on a fully assembled instrument without damaging the top. Does anyone know of such a tool? I remember a citation of an instrument that was used to measure the thickness of the paint in autos. Tom Nelligan from Olympus NDT/Panametrics-NDT Products in Waltham, Massachusetts replies: Commercial ultrasonic thickness gauges of the sort made by my company (and our competitors) for measurement of industrial engineering materials like metals, plastics, and ceramics will not work on wood, because wood does not efficiently transmit sound waves at ultrasonic frequencies in the MHz range. Pulse/echo ultrasonic gauging is based on very precisely measuring the round-trip transit time of a short pulse of very high frequency sound waves through the test piece. But the high frequency/short wavelength wave front is scattered by the microstructure of the wood, so it is not possible to get the necessary clean echo from the inner wall. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of our premium web content offered to Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 4 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. If you are already a member, login for access or contact us to setup your account.
