Posted on June 6, 2024May 28, 2025 by Dale Phillips Questions: Gibson Firebird Plan Questions: Gibson Firebird Plan by David Riggs Originally published in American Lutherie #76, 2003 See also, Questions: Gibson Firebird Plan by Mike Doolin David Riggs of Joplin, MO answers Marc Vermeiren's question regarding acquiring a plan of a Gibson Firebird: I have several templates, having made a few Firebird-style instruments before Gibson started making reproductions in the ’70s. Anyone interested may e-mail me: titanicslim@yahoo.com.
Posted on June 6, 2024May 28, 2025 by Dale Phillips Questions: Metal Dobro Questions: Metal Dobro by Cyndy Burton Originally published in American Lutherie #82, 2005 Richard Davis from cyberspace asks: I would like to find a source for plans to build a metal Dobro, and the parts that I cannot make. Cyndy Burton of Portland, OR answers: The GAL doesn’t have a Dobro plan, but Stew-Mac does: www.stewmac.com/shop/Books,_plans/Plans.html. They carry parts, too. Also, you might check out www.beardguitars.com/blueprints.html for plans and parts. The Guild has published several articles on making Dobro or resonator guitars. Go to www.luth.org, select abstracts, and search for “\guitar\resophonic.” ◆
Posted on June 6, 2024May 28, 2025 by Dale Phillips Questions: Simple Instrument Plan Questions: Simple Instrument Plan by Tim Olsen Originally published in American Lutherie #76, 2003 Russell Lee from cyberspace asks: I have no lutherie experience and would like to purchase a plan for a simple instrument. (I know others who have experience and tools who can help.) Which of the bowed instruments for which you sell plans is the easiest to make? Or is some other plan (other than a bowed instrument) much easier? Tim Olsen, our fearless leader, responds: There is only one GAL plan that I would think of as easy to make. Many are simple instruments, but the plans may not include full instructions, or the subtleties of those instruments may not be apparent. So I'd draw your attention to GAL Plan #44, “True Companion” Travel Guitar by John Calkin. Fairly detailed how-to text is included along with several photos of the building process. No side bending is required. An article and reduced plan appear in AL#57. The plan can be ordered directly from our website at www.luth.org and an image of it can be seen at https://luth.org/instrument-plans/guitar-plans/steel-string-guitar-plans/#Plan44. ◆
Posted on June 6, 2024May 23, 2025 by Dale Phillips Questions: Acoustic Guitar Wood Questions: Acoustic Guitar Wood by John Calkin Originally published in American Lutherie #93, 2009 Eric Gran from Norway asks: In the back of my brain, the idea of building guitar(s) is slowly growing. I would like to use as much local wood in my projects as possible. I found John Calkin’s article “The Heretic’s Guide to Alternative Lutherie Woods” enlightening. I can find local spruce, birch, fir, larch, maple, alder, rowan tree (European mountain ash) just to mention those I believe are most suited. Do you believe that a good acoustic guitar could be made only of wood found in Snåsa (the community where I live) in Norway? I understand that the fretboard and bridge need to be made of especially hard wood, so that may be a problem, but could you give me any idea of what properties are demanded? John Calkin from Greenville, VA responds: I encourage your use of native wood species. Processing your own wood is a huge amount of work, but it is also hugely gratifying. Starting with a standing tree will amplify both ends of that statement. But I also encourage you to begin a guitar as soon as possible. You could build several instruments in the time it takes large planks of wood to season. Hardwood from a local source will serve you well. Try to find quartersawn wood if possible, but proceed with your project even if you can’t. Quartered side wood is less likely to distort during bending, though any piece of wood can surprise you. I’ve used birch, maple, cherry, and oak to build beautiful, wonderful instruments, but you’ll have to maintain your resolve against the conservative members of our fraternity who will argue (loudly!) that only traditional wood varieties are worthy of your time. I’d recommend commercially prepared top wood for your first instruments, even though local spruce is available to you, just to put to rest any doubts you may have about the worthiness of your materials. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of our premium web content offered to Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 4 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. If you are already a member, login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on June 6, 2024May 23, 2025 by Dale Phillips Questions: Nontropical Fingerboard Materials Questions: Nontropical Fingerboard Materials by Tom Theil Originally published in American Lutherie #96, 2008 See also, Questions: North American Wood by Mark French, Ned Steinberger, and Alan Carruth Tom Theil from Northwind Tonewood in Upper Sandwich, New Hampshire responds to Larry L.’s question in AL#94 about nontropical materials for fingerboards: As high quality exotic woods are becoming more precious, domestic alternatives become more viable. Fingerboard/bridge material must be hard, abrasion resistant, stable, and of similar pore structure, density, and (usually) color to traditional materials. Since every element of the instrument imparts its sonic signature, and the fingerboard and bridge are close to the vibrating string, their structural and resonance characteristics are quite important. These characteristics are measurable, but very subtle and include stiffness in all three grain directions, mass, and damping factor, plus stability and machinability for frets and inlay. You can select materials which mimic ebony, rosewood, or maple, the traditional woods of preference. Tests might include weight, feel under sandpaper, and the sound when knuckled, scratched, and bounced on its endgrain. Although only marginally scientific, these tests are amazingly accurate due to the ear-brain system’s ability to differentiate subtle information contained in the early onset transient of the sound. If it rings cleanly, it is clean. If it knocks like papier mâché, it’s dead. These characteristics become part of the instrument’s tone. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of our premium web content offered to Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 4 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. If you are already a member, login for access or contact us to setup your account.