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Harpsichord Basics

Harpsichord Basics

by J.R. Beall

Originally published in Guild of American Luthiers Newsletter Volume 1, #2, 1973



Almost since the beginning of my career as a luthier, I have been obsessed with the desire to build harpsichords. My inclinations were, however, met with a great deal of difficulty resultig from the fact that in my part of the country, harpshichords and their makers are rare.

After quite a long period of dilligent investigation, I did manage to compile a list of information on the subject and was able, successfully, to build my first instrument.

The completion of my own scratchbuilt harpsichord was one of the most exciting and satisfying occurences of my career as a luthier, and I recommend it highly to those of you with similar aspirations.

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Foam Cases

Foam Cases

by Reagan Cole

Originally published as Guild of American Luthiers Data Sheet #62, 1978



These paper-styrene laminates are very strong. I can safely sit on a board made up of 1” foam and two sides of cardboard.

It is most convenient to use cloth hinges, elastic, snaps and velcro in your closure system.

Styrene laminates also make good forms for laminating forms in vacuum presses. No deformation, as gas pressure in the foam “cells” equal outside air pressure.

Suitable glues for styrene foam cores include: white glue, yellow glue, hot melt, pet, ether based impact adhesive (“Styro Bond”). Eposy works, but won’t cut with a hot wire.

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Conical Radius Fretboard Formula

Conical Radius Fretboard Formula

by Elaine Hartstein

Originally published in American Lutherie #34, 1993 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume Three, 2004



As a follow-up to Tim Earls’ article “In Search of the Perfect Cone” in American Lutherie #30, I’ve come up with a formula for finding the hypothetically-ideal radius for the fingerboard at any distance from the nut. Since a set of nonparallel strings cannot lie flat on a cylindrical fretboard, we wish to discover the geometry of the cone described by the strings. As Tim Olsen suggested, the outside strings (as opposed to the edges of the fingerboard) should define the cone. The cone defined by the fingerboard edge would give results with a smaller radius.

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Guitar Outline Formula

Guitar Outline Formula

by Leo Bidne

Originally published in Guild of American Luthiers Data Sheet #79, 1978



From taking several measurements of various guitars, I’ve discovered only slight differences from one to the next. These differences seem to contribute very little to the finished sound. The question is, what is the reason for making a guitar the shape that it is? What are the determining factors, besides the obvious ones? Can there be a “formula” that produces an “ideal” outline? This is what I set out to find.

What I came up with, rather independently, so closely resembles, at least in dimension, the existing standard outline of the classic guitar as introduced by Torres, that I wonder if a similar technique may have been in use in the past, in some modified form. This formula, based on the string length, may be of no use to acoustical science, but it’s as fun as a math game, and twice as surprising. Although the information below describes how to derive an outline for a classic guitar with a string length of 65CM, joining the body at the 12th fret, it can also be used, with slight modifications, for other instruments, such as the flattop, the acoustic bass, the electric guitar, etc. Once the outline is established, the depth of the sound cavity can be adjusted with the sides, helping to establish the instruments sonority, as well as adjusting the soundboard bracing.

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The Design Diamond

The Design Diamond

by Dan Neil McCrimmon

Originally published as Guild of American Luthiers Data Sheet #100, 1978



The basic idea behind this geometry jazz is to have the elements of design organized in such a way to give a sense of cohesion to the total design. The drawing is of a classic guitar, other guitars will be different but should have simple relationships. I have not tried this with the violin but suspect it should fit in there somehow.

The whole design is broken into simple subdivisions of the total length of the sides (i.e. 1/2, 1/3, 1/4). Line XY is half the length of AB.

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