Posted on January 13, 2010February 6, 2024 by Dale Phillips Violin Q & A: Limits of Regraduation Violin Q & A: Limits of Regraduation by George Manno Originally published in American Lutherie #10, 1987 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume One, 2000 I recently regraduated the top, back, and sides of a violin. I took the top down to 2.5MM in the center, the upper and lower bouts down to 2.2MM, and the ribs down to .9MM. I refit a new bassbar and put the instrument back together. The instrument sounds so much better after this tonal adjustment, but I have to keep fitting a new soundpost every month or so. I have noticed a slight bulge in the soundpost area of the top. My question to you is, should I remove the top and put in a soundpost patch, or treat the underside of the table with potassium silicate to stiffen up the wood? What you did to the violin in question is not considered by most makers and repairpersons to be a “tonal adjustment.” What you have done is to prepare the instrument for an early grave. Nothing you do now is going to save it. Forgive me for coming down so hard on you, but regraduating an instrument to such radical proportions leaves the instrument, in my opinion, unplayable, unrepairable, and worthless. I hope that the violin we are speaking of does not belong to a customer of yours. I suggest to anyone reading this to remember that, when repairing an instrument, keep in mind the factor of irreversability in your work. Wood does not grow back once it is carved away!
Posted on January 13, 2010February 6, 2024 by Dale Phillips Violin Q & A: Color of Potassium Silicate Violin Q & A: Color of Potassium Silicate by George Manno Originally published in American Lutherie #9, 1987 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume One, 2000 On my first three violins, I used a gamboge solution to seal the instruments before I varnished them. This left a warm yellowish ground for me to work with. On my latest instrument, I used potassium silicate, like Sacconi mentions in his book, The “Secrets” of Stradivari. The back and ribs turned a beautiful cinnamon brown, but the top has a tinge of green in it. What, if anything, can I do to avoid this in the future? I experienced this green tinge once myself. Now before I mix my potassium silicate with water, I put a tea bag in warm water and let it sit for a few minutes. Then I remove the tea bag and combine the two liquids, mixing well and applying it to the instrument while the solution is still warm. Try this the next time.
Posted on January 13, 2010March 7, 2024 by Dale Phillips It Worked for Me: Violin Shipping Tips It Worked for Me: Violin Shipping Tips by Keith Davis Originally published in American Lutherie #48, 1996 Helpful hints for shipping a violin: ▶ Place a foam rubber or tissue paper filler under the end of the fingerboard. This should be just snug, not too tight. ▶ Place a similar pad under the end of the tailpiece nearest the bridge. ▶ Using additional foam rubber or tissue, make a pad that will fill the space between the bridge and the end of the fingerboard, and a similar one that will fit between the bridge and the tailpiece and put them in place. ▶ With the padding in place, lower the string tension slightly, the equivalent of about one full tone. The strings should touch the pads. ▶ If a polyethylene violin bag is available, put the violin into it prior to putting it in the case to help protect the instrument from humidity changes during transit. ▶ Place additional foam rubber pads between the case and the ribs of the violin to prevent it from knocking around in the case. Make sure that the neck of the violin is supported and that the bow(s), if any, are well secured. ▶ Close the case carefully after including any necessary documents. Pick up the case in both hands and shake it gently, then with more vigor, listening to see if the violin is well secured. If not, back up and add more padding. ▶ Pack the case in an appropriate corrugated cardboard box. Padding between the case and the box is essential and may consist of crumpled paper in great quantity, foam peanuts, foam rubber. ▶ Whenever possible, ship violins on Mondays or Tuesdays, and rare or valuable instruments via 2nd Day Air. This will prevent long layovers in unheated warehouses. Please Note: People receiving violins in terribly cold weather should exercise caution in unpacking them. The instrument, box and all should be allowed to come to room temperature before opening. Frozen violins, shocked by instant exposure to warm air, can turn into 72-piece violin kits. Take your time and do a nice job. Using these methods we at Davis Instrument Service have never suffered a shipping loss. ◆
Posted on January 13, 2010February 6, 2024 by Dale Phillips Violin Q & A: Violin Polish Recipe Violin Q & A: Violin Polish Recipe by George Manno Originally published in American Lutherie #9, 1987 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume One, 2000 No matter what I use to polish a violin, it never seems to clean it completely. Do you have any suggestions? I have never found a product that cleans as well as polishes, although many manufacturers claim that their product will do both. Taking into consideration the instrument’s age, type of varnish, and how dirty it is, there are a number of cleaning products that you can use. Example: a French violin, ca. 1875, covered with a thin spirit varnish, with enough caked-on rosin so that ridges have formed on either side of the fingerboard. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of our premium web content offered to Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 4 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. If you are already a member, login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on January 13, 2010February 7, 2024 by Dale Phillips Letter: Erikson Letter AL#7 Letter: Erikson Letter AL#7 by George Manno Originally published in American Lutherie #8, 1986 Dear Tim: In response to Mr. Erikson’s letter, published in American Lutherie #7, I’d like to say that just because violin makers focus their talents on one art form, it shouldn’t and doesn't make me feel above any of my fellow lodge brothers or sisters who practice their talents in another form. I felt Mr. Erikson was trying to impy just that when he referred to violin makers as “a special breed.” I also disagree with his statement that the American Federation of Violin and Bow Makers lacks unity. Although I am not a member of this federation, I have spoken to its president and secretary on many occasions. Unity within the federation is stressed at all times. The question of work ethics, which I raised in the article entitled “Honesty” (American Lutherie #5), is only a small part of a bigger concern that many violin makers face. In many ways, the G.A.L., with its publication, has helped bridge the gaps that arise due to the lack of information being published by and for violin makers. Tim, I applaud your efforts. American Lutherie #7 was one of the best violin-related issues ever. If you are an amateur maker or a professional maker or repairman/woman who would like to start a new guild for violin and bow makers, with the sole purpose of sharing more information on making, repair techniques, and instrument identification, please contact me. I’d be willing to start some sort of newsletter to help get it off the ground. This does not mean that I am leaving the G.A.L. Sounds great! The GAL loves lutherie info sharing in any form. Also, American Lutherie has good violin stuff in the can for upcoming issues. Thanks to members like you, George, our violin family coverage has improved noticeably. -Tim
