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Questions: Tru-Oil Finishes

Questions: Tru-Oil Finishes

by Jeff Jewitt

Originally published in American Lutherie #90, 2007

 

Eric Nicholson of Northern Ireland asks:

Woodworker magazine published an article on Stewart Adamson’s work regarding Tru-Oil finishes. His method involved a considerable amount of work with Micro-mesh during the process. I tried his method on my own guitars, both classical and steel string, with very satisfying results. Tru-Oil gives an attractive semigloss finish on all woods, but Adamson also goes on to say that for those that like a gloss finish, a gloss tung oil is now available only in the USA. Does anyone know of this gloss tung oil and where it is available in the States, or if it is now available in the UK?


Jeff Jewett of Homestead Finishing in Cleveland Ohio
responds:

Tru-Oil is not pure tung oil. It’s a mixture of linseed oil, mineral spirits, and, according to the manufacturer, “modified oil.” It’s arguable that no tung oil is even used in this stuff. When finish chemists talk about “modified oil” as an ingredient they typically mean either chemical modification or heat modification. Chemically modifying a drying oil involves reacting it with chemicals and heat to form what are known as alkyds, which are used in varnish manufacture. Heat-treated oils basically jump start the drying/curing process. Pure heat-treated oils are used all the time in making finishes, but they rarely show up as “finishes.” The only pure heat-treated linseed oil I know of is Tried and True “Varnish Oil.” Pure heat-treated tung oil is sold in this country under the Sutherland Welles brand (www.sutherlandwelles.com). So I would be tempted to say that Tru-Oil is a mix of linseed oil and some sort of modified linseed or tung oil. Because it has a high oil content, it is not possible to produce a very glossy finish. High oil (also known as long oil) products tend to form microscopic wrinkles at the surface as they cure.

There is one way to heat-modify pure tung oil so that it will form a glossy film. This involves careful and controlled heating of the oil to about 450°F. Very few people can cook tung oil properly nowadays, but you can buy it under the Sutherland Welles brand “Original Formula High Lustre.” I don’t know if they will ship overseas. It’s not an easy finish to do, and I’m not sure that it will match the gloss of a French polish, but at least you know it is real tung oil, along with solvent and some driers.

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Review: Guitar; An American Life by Tim Brookes

Review: Guitar; An American Life by Tim Brookes

Reviewed by Ervin Somogyi

Originally published in American Lutherie #87, 2006



Guitar: An American Life
Tim Brookes
ISBN: 0-8021-1796-1
Grove Press, 352 pp., 2005

I found Tim Brookes’ Guitar: An American Life while browsing in a bookstore in Manhattan. I’d never heard of this book, but it’s one of the most enjoyable and informative reads I’ve ever had about the instrument I’ve built my professional life around. It’s written much in the spirit of Richard Halliburton’s marvelous and magical travel books that I read many years ago and that opened up my young mind’s vistas.

It was a pleasant surprise to find that this book is, on the initial level, about a guitar building collaboration between the author and Rick Davis, a fellow luthier with whom I have a friendship. A book about a guitar making project written from the client’s point of view: Wow, what a great idea!

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Ren-Shaped Precision Mold Material

Ren-Shaped Precision Mold Material

by Ed Beylerian

Originally published in American Lutherie #21, 1990



The demand for ever-increasing quality in end-use products has generated a concurrent need for improved modeling materials. Patterns and molds constructed from traditional materials such as laminated wood and plaster cannot maintain the precise tolerances required by model makers in the automotive, aerospace, foundry, and prototyping industries. With Ren-Shape 450, models can be built with a more stable medium, using precision numerically controlled (NC) machining equipment.

I obtained a 2"×16"×60" board of Ren-Shape from Ciba-Geigy corporation, as well as the laminating compound and the repair kit. Ren-Shape is about the same hardness and density of a medium hard wood, and a tan color. The setting time of the two-part laminating compound is easily controlled by the amount of hardener used, and can range from one to six hours. The repair compound sets overnight.

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A Review of Three Old Lutherie Books

A Review of Three Old Lutherie Books

with an Emphasis on Their Guitar Sections

by Jan Tulacek, Alain Bieber, and James Buckland

Originally published in American Lutherie #104, 2010



As we undertake this overview of three 19th-century lutherie texts, we recognize that much older documents were circulating from late medieval times. Some, such as the manuscript of Henri Arnault de Zwolle written in Dijon in 1440, already contained good descriptions of instruments, but to our knowledge, none had the goal to become a comprehensive “how to” lutherie handbook.

From the Baroque era there are the important musical treatises of Michael Praetorius (1620) in Germany and Marin Mersenne (1635/36) in France, with good descriptions of our Western European string instruments. We also have a few fascinating descriptions of particular aspects of lutherie such as the Antonio Bagatella violin booklet of 1782, or the lesser-known Pierre Trichet viol making manuscript of 1640. And while the encyclopedia format of the Enlightenment Period of the middle 18th century never allowed extensive coverage of the topic, the French Diderot and D’Alembert books had wonderful drawings and interesting lutherie information.

But in the late 1820s and early 1830s, still considered by many as the apex of the classical guitar in written music, we see two real lutherie “how-to” books appear, describing all the steps in the fabrication of the guitar. The first writer was Wettengel in Germany, followed a few years later by Maugin in France. In spite of many imperfections, they give a good understanding of the methods used in the two main centers of lutherie at that time, i.e., Neukirchen (now Markneukirchen) in Saxony and Mirecourt in Lorraine. A third important how-to book, by Hasluck, was published in the United States in 1907, but was likely written in the last decade of the 19th century. It is a very important work since it represents the first attempt to write a “how-to” lutherie book in English.

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Nine Electric Guitar Construction References Reviewed

Nine Electric Guitar Construction References Reviewed

by John Calkin

previously published in American Lutherie #63, 2000



Electric guitars are interesting creatures. The noises they are capable of producing are so far removed from an acoustic guitar that a listener could convince him/herself that either something magical has happened to the instrument or something has gone dreadfully wrong in the world.

Creating electric guitars often conjures up a frustrating paradox. The guitar body begins life as nothing more than a chunk of wood and ends up as little more than a chunk of wood, but assembling and shaping that chunk can present a challenge out of all proportion to what you end up with. Power planers and jointers are expensive. On the other hand, accomplishing the job with hand tools requires a serious investment in time needed to learn to sharpen, set up, and master the tools. Farming out the heavy work is possible, but often seems to dilute the lutherie experience (a belief, strangely enough, found most often in rank beginners who have neither money nor talent, and are often cursed with a stunted sense of the practical). To me the obvious answer was plywood, which makes a much better guitar than anyone would have you believe. The shape, cavities, and channels can all be established with routers and such before the body is glued up to thickness. It’s chief drawback is that it’s hard to finish nicely, but it will get you into guitar making with the least amount of outside help and expense.

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