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Copying Pearl Patterns

Copying Pearl Patterns

by Robert A. Steinegger

Originally published as Guild of American Luthiers Data Sheet #125, 1979 and in Lutherie Woods and Steel String Guitars, 1997



Whenever I get my hands on a nice old instrument with distinctive pearl work, I like to get the pearl patterns for my collection. First of all, I photocopy all the parts of the pattern. (Note: the copy machine must be of the type that prints actual-size copies. The instrument must be held carefully and steadily on the machine.) This may have to be done from several angles because of the variations within the pearl itself. Abalone inlays are very difficult to copy in this manner, but a little patience should see the job done.

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Questions: Clark Harp Value

Questions: Clark Harp Value

by Howard Bryan

Originally published in American Lutherie #80, 2004 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume Seven, 2015

 

Keith Davis of Iron River, Michigan asks:

I have in my shop an old Clark harp, SN 2102. The owner wishes to know more about its value. The headblock has been reglued, and there are a number of small, inconsequential cracks in the soundboard, but it is otherwise in great shape and has its original stand.


Howard Bryan of Lynchburg, Virginia
answers:

Clark Irish harps are cute, and they certainly filled a void when they were being built. They also had some neat design features, like the little collapsible stool that became an integral part of the instrument when needed. That said, there are far better harps being made today. The main problem with the Clarks is the sharping blades, which are not adjustable. With a new soundboard, intonation isn’t too bad, but as the harp matures the string lengths change and the blades are no longer in quite the correct place, so the harp plays out of tune with blades engaged. I recommend that active musicians buy a more modern instrument from one of the better makers, as opposed to spending big bucks reconditioning a Clark, but emotions are often a factor and we have repaired/restored several in the last couple of years. Typically most need the knee block and pillar/neck joint reglued. Since the original joints were doweled, it is usually a trick to get them completely apart. Many need new soundboards, which is an expensive repair. The originals were fine, but most are becoming unglued and many have split.

They seem to sell for around $3000 if in really good shape, less if they need work. A Clark Irish needing neck/kneeblock/soundboard repairs can usually be had for under $500, but the cost of repairs needs to be added to the purchase price.

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It Worked for Me: Hardanger Fiddle Pegs

It Worked for Me: Hardanger Fiddle Pegs

by David Golber

Originally published in American Lutherie #83, 2005 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume Seven, 2015



I do a lot of work on Hardanger fiddles. One way in which these instruments differ from violins is the pegs. In the violin world, pegs are disposable. When they wear out, you replace them and throw away the old ones. But in a fine Hardanger fiddle, the pegs are decorated work of the maker of the instrument, and must not be thrown away.

But what do you do when the old decorated pegs are severely worn? There must be other instruments and circumstances with similar problems, so maybe the question is interesting to more than the tiny circle of Hardanger fiddle aficionados. Here’s one method for putting new ebony shafts on old decorated pegs.

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