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It Worked for Me: Pre-bend Rosette Rings

It Worked for Me: Pre-bend Rosette Rings

by Dan Alexander

Originally published in American Lutherie #144, 2021

 

I’ve been learning to build acoustic guitars for a couple of years. I’m getting there. One of the minor issues I’ve had is gluing purfling strips into routed channels around the soundhole without breaking the fragile little strips. Routing the channels is a piece of cake with this StewMac Dremel accessory, but when you have gloves on, and the channel is full of epoxy, getting the strips into the slots can be problematic. So, I made this jig to deal with it (Photo 1). I place the strips into the channels, which is easy when there are no gloves and no glue. Then I use my heat gun to heat the strips, and Bob’s your uncle. The strips come out of the jig prebent, and gluing them into the rosette is no problem! Best thing: I made the jig in fifteen minutes from a scrap of plywood. Cost: Zipski, baby! ◆

Photo 1. Photo by Dan Alexander.
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Measuring Resonant Frequencies of an Acoustic Guitar

Measuring Resonant Frequencies of an Acoustic Guitar

by Mark French

Originally published in American Lutherie #143, 2021



Many luthiers track resonant frequencies of their acoustic guitars, often with the goal of meeting some target values. It’s common for the first two resonant frequencies of a full-sized acoustic guitar to be near 100Hz and 200Hz respectively. Some builders use detailed frequency measurements during the build process. For example, Greg Byers described his methods in his 2017 GAL Convention workshop (AL#134). Another good discussion is in Volume 1 of Contemporary Acoustic Guitar Design and Build by Trevor Gore and Gerard Gilet.

Resonant frequencies are a function of the ratio of stiffness over mass. Specifically, frequency is proportional to √(stiffness/mass). This simple relationship is harder to apply at higher modes, but it describes the effect of the structure on the lowest modes well enough for us. In practice, it’s easier to reduce resonant frequencies than to increase them. Selectively thinning parts of the top or shaving braces reduces stiffness more than mass, and so tends to reduce resonant frequencies. It’s very uncommon for luthiers to add anything, either mass or stiffness, to their guitars in order to modify dynamic response, though it is certainly a valid thing to do. Trevor Gore is the only one who comes to mind, though there may be others I’ve not heard of.

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Vise on a Stick

Vise on a Stick

by Harry Fleishman

Originally published in American Lutherie #143, 2021



I tend to work in terribly uncomfortable and physically damaging postures, thanks to the inevitable mismatch between where the work is, where it would be comfortable to work on it, how my body is shaped, and my inherent laziness. In spite of that, about thirty years ago I decided to design a jig that might help in a few types of work. These include neck shaping (where clamps tend to be in the way, and the work keeps needing to be moved), and bridge, saddle, and nut work (where I like to get it up closer to eye level).

As those of you who have read my articles in the past know, I started out when there were virtually no off-the-shelf jigs and tools for lutherie. To some modern luthiers that may seem like a deprivation; I believe there was a benefit to having to figure out how to make them. It made one more inventive, and for me, that carried over to my design work.

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First Build: A Lumberyard Ukulele

First Build: A Lumberyard Ukulele

by Steve Dickerson

Originally published in American Lutherie #143, 2021



When you’re building your first instrument, there aren’t many options. You can buy a kit, join a class (if you can find one), or build from scratch. Kit building can be enjoyable, as well as educational, but (to me, at least) it doesn’t produce the same satisfaction and sense of accomplishment that comes from starting with nothing but the raw materials.

My first instrument, many years ago, was scratch-built, but with a twist: I bought a tenor ukulele kit from StewMac, complete with plans and a how-to DVD. I watched the DVD, studied the plans and manual, but set the kit aside. I then bought materials from Home Depot and made a uke, using the kit’s plans and instructions. I still have my “Lumberyard Ukulele” (Photo 1), and it’s a good reminder of some of the things I did wrong.

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Fretboard/Top Plate Geometry of the Flattop Guitar

Fretboard/Top Plate Geometry of the Flattop Guitar

by R.M. Mottola¸

Originally published in American Lutherie #111, 2012



The geometric relationship between the fretboard of the flattop guitar and the top of that instrument is an interesting one, if for no other reason than that a number of the critical dimensions of the instrument such as action and bridge height are affected by it. The geometry of these components is also the source of many technical questions from luthiers attempting to make design departures from conventional instruments, and from those who are simply curious about how all this fits together. This article will discuss the topic using basic examples from conventional instruments. The math will be presented for readers who want to make use of it in their design efforts. Diagrams and textual descriptions are also included, and wherever possible I’ve attempted to discuss the practical ramifications of some typical approaches to this aspect of guitar design. This latter part is generally limited to the basic mechanics of how the parts of the instrument fit together. Although it could be fruitful to widen the scope here to include discussion of general mechanics and acoustics of the instrument, I am not dwelling much in these areas. There is enough to cover just discussing the geometry and assembly considerations.

To begin, I’d like to introduce some basic concepts and terminology. Some of these concepts are both generally understood and are described using standard terminology. Terms like bridge height, action, and neck angle are familiar, but let me quickly define each of these as they are used in this article. Bridge height is the nominal height of the bridge from the top of the guitar to the top of the saddle at the instrument’s centerline. Neck angle is the angle between the nominal plane of the top and that of the surface of the neck shaft that contacts the underside of the fingerboard. A positive neck angle means the neck is angled toward the back of the body. Action is the height of the strings above the fret crowns. More specifically (as used here), it is the height of the nominal string-bottom plane over the nominal fret-crown plane.

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