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Novice Notes

Novice Notes

by Donald Curry

Originally published in Guild of American Luthiers Quarterly, 5, #3, 1977



Editor’s Note: This column marks the last of the regular “Novice Notes” series which has run in the GALQ for a full year now. Mr. Curry assures us that he will continue to follow the Guild’s activities with interest, and I would like to take this opportunity to thank him most warmly for the excellent and reliable manner in which he has presented this informative series.

This final step in the making of an instrument is the finish, which includes preparation of the wood, applying the finishing material, and the final polishing. This subject probably has more diversity than any other in lutherie. Every luthier and every book on the subject differ as to how to produce a proper finish. Many different methods have proved equally successful and for this reason I will not go through a specific procedure but comment on some important aspects often overlooked.

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Waterborne Solutions

Waterborne Solutions

by Mike Doolin and John Greven

from their 2001 GAL Convention demonstration

Originally published in American Lutherie #73, 2003



Doolin: Waterborne finishes and methods of working with them are constantly evolving. New products come out every year and old formulas are continually being updated. This workshop is like a snapshot of what John and I were doing at the time, and our techniques have continued to evolve. We trade techniques back and forth and share our results with new products as they become available. We never seem to be using exactly the same products or techniques; this just goes to show that there is no perfect finish product or technique yet. However, John and I agree that the products which have become available in the last few years are finally up to the task of producing a finish worthy of a fine handmade guitar.

Before we get into the nitty-gritty, I want to talk about what waterborne finish is. First, think of lacquer and shellac. Both lacquer and shellac are resins dissolved in solvent. Spray it on, the solvents evaporate out, and that’s it. There’s no structural cross-linking reaction going on. Anytime after the finish is dry, you can use lacquer thinner to wipe the lacquer off the guitar. The same is true for pure shellac, which is always soluble in alcohol. That’s useful for a finish which will be rubbed out, particularly if you’re going to be touching up at a later time. You can melt that coat in. Otherwise, if the subsequent coat has to stick by a mechanical bond, you get a witness line if you sand through the top coat. One of the advantages of the new waterborne finishes is that they seem to do that — to burn into their previous coats. That’s one of the things we’re looking for.

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Fret Spacing Without a Calculator

Fret Spacing Without a Calculator

by Scott Antes

Originally published in Guild of American Luthiers Data Sheet #11, 1975



In Calculating Fret Scales, Data Sheet #4, we discussed fret scale calculation with the use of an electronic calculator. This data sheet is for use by those who either have no access to such a calculator, are too proud to use one, or who are interested in making only a partial fret scale; for instance, that of a dulcimer.

And a short addendum to DS #4, please note that in any fret scale, the point known as ‘bridge’ is a hypothetical point at which the actual bridge would be located if the string height and fret height were both zero, or if a number of other impossible conditions were to exist.

The hypothetical bridge point exists for calculation purposes only. To find the actual bridge point, the amount of compensation deemed necessary is added to the hypothetical string length from which the fret scale was calculated.

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Nuts and Bolts for Bridge Gluing

Nuts and Bolts for Bridge Gluing

by Tim Olsen

Originally published in Guild of American Luthiers Data Sheet #126, 1979 and Lutherie Woods and Steel String Guitars, 1998

 

The holes of a pin-style bridge provide a golden opportunity to apply some very convincing clamping pressure. I use 3 10×32 1" round-head bolts with washers, wing nuts, and pieces of drilled shoe sole leather to temporarily bolt the bridge on while gluing.

This not only exerts a strong pressure to the back edge of the bridge, but the bolts ensure an accurate alignment of the bridge. All that remains is to set a deep-throated cam clamp on each end of the bridge. The leather washers will take up any slop that the bridge might have. This is a natural for repair work as well as construction. ◆

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The Case For KTM

The Case For KTM

by Michael Turko

Originally published in American Lutherie #72, 2002



For ten years now I have been building custom guitars, and I have been using KTM waterborne lacquer as my only finish coat for most of that time. I believe it is an excellent choice for the small custom builder for a variety of reasons.

▶ There is no offensive odor or noxious fumes to create problems in residential neighborhoods.
▶ It may be applied by hand without sprayers or other specialized equipment.
▶ It dries extremely fast, and may be buffed to a high gloss within hours (or less) instead of days.
▶ It builds much faster than solvent-based lacquers, and many coats can be applied on the same day.
▶ No special pore or grain fillers are required.
▶ It dries absolutely clear without adding any tint or shade of its own (although tinting maybe added if desired).

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