Posted on August 1, 2022March 5, 2024 by Dale Phillips Questions: Tru-Oil Finishes Questions: Tru-Oil Finishes by Jeff Jewitt Originally published in American Lutherie #90, 2007 ■ Eric Nicholson of Northern Ireland asks: Woodworker magazine published an article on Stewart Adamson’s work regarding Tru-Oil finishes. His method involved a considerable amount of work with Micro-mesh during the process. I tried his method on my own guitars, both classical and steel string, with very satisfying results. Tru-Oil gives an attractive semigloss finish on all woods, but Adamson also goes on to say that for those that like a gloss finish, a gloss tung oil is now available only in the USA. Does anyone know of this gloss tung oil and where it is available in the States, or if it is now available in the UK? Jeff Jewett of Homestead Finishing in Cleveland Ohio responds: Tru-Oil is not pure tung oil. It’s a mixture of linseed oil, mineral spirits, and, according to the manufacturer, “modified oil.” It’s arguable that no tung oil is even used in this stuff. When finish chemists talk about “modified oil” as an ingredient they typically mean either chemical modification or heat modification. Chemically modifying a drying oil involves reacting it with chemicals and heat to form what are known as alkyds, which are used in varnish manufacture. Heat-treated oils basically jump start the drying/curing process. Pure heat-treated oils are used all the time in making finishes, but they rarely show up as “finishes.” The only pure heat-treated linseed oil I know of is Tried and True “Varnish Oil.” Pure heat-treated tung oil is sold in this country under the Sutherland Welles brand (www.sutherlandwelles.com). So I would be tempted to say that Tru-Oil is a mix of linseed oil and some sort of modified linseed or tung oil. Because it has a high oil content, it is not possible to produce a very glossy finish. High oil (also known as long oil) products tend to form microscopic wrinkles at the surface as they cure. There is one way to heat-modify pure tung oil so that it will form a glossy film. This involves careful and controlled heating of the oil to about 450°F. Very few people can cook tung oil properly nowadays, but you can buy it under the Sutherland Welles brand “Original Formula High Lustre.” I don’t know if they will ship overseas. It’s not an easy finish to do, and I’m not sure that it will match the gloss of a French polish, but at least you know it is real tung oil, along with solvent and some driers.
Posted on August 1, 2022March 5, 2024 by Dale Phillips Bridge Positioning Bridge Positioning by Eric Henderson Originally published in Guild of American Luthiers Data Sheet #7, 1975 One procedure I use which your readers may find useful is that on my guitar top all the cross bracing and fan bracing is made up from the cuttings from the top blanks. For the cross bracing, I have to laminate two pieces together with the joint at right angles to the top. This procedure, I feel, guarantees that the woods are compatible. Another thing I do is when gluing the bridge I drill two small holes approximately 1/16" diam. in the slot for the ivory saddle, and when the bridge is precisely positioned, I drill through the top. The bridge can then be glued without being concerned about it moving because I temporarily inset two finishing nails in the two holes. The finishing nails are removed before the glue has completely set. The holes remaining are covered up by the ivory saddle. These are just two small items, but I would like to see the members who want to share small items like this write them up. ◆
Posted on August 1, 2022March 5, 2024 by Dale Phillips On Becoming a Successful Luthier On Becoming a Successful Luthier by R.E. Bruné Originally published in Guild of American Luthiers Newsletter Volume 2 #6, 1974 A question I am often asked by visitors to my shop and other luthiers, is, “are you making it?” as if to say “anyone who looks like he’s having such a good time doesn’t deserve to make money too.” Well, I am happy to report that yes, I’m “making” it. To be judged a successful luthier, I think it is really necessary to examine exactly what “Success” is, especially in terms of today’s somewhat unstable economic climate. Unfortunately, for many of this country’s working people, the only tangible measure of success is the monthly bank statement. The balance of the account has become the end in itself, and the product be damned. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of our premium web content offered to Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 4 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. If you are already a member, login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on July 8, 2022March 5, 2024 by Dale Phillips Quickie Sander Fence Quickie Sander Fence by John Calkin Published online by Guild of American Luthiers, July 2022 Every lutherie shop has jigs hanging around. Often, lots of them. Every sort of stringed instrument is easier and faster to build using good jigs. If you decide that you'd like to build all of the instrument types commonly played in America you will accumulate a serious number of jigs. These days just about all of the most useful jigs can be purchased from a variety of dealers. They are very pretty and often better-made and more useful than a jig we would bother to make in our own shop. Well, prettier, anyhow. If you have entered lutherie in the last fifteen years you may have grown tired of old-timers complaining about this, as if making all of your own jigs was a right of passage that should never be skipped. "In my day we couldn't buy a guitar jig of any kind anywhere! We were lucky to find a book with pictures of guitars, let alone instructions to make them. Huff!" Well, sometimes we need a jig or fixture (what's the difference, anyhow?) that isn't instrument-specific, but machine-specific. I have vague memories of making a right-angle fence for my 6×48 belt sander. I still have the same sander, so when I rediscovered the jig---er, fixture---a few weeks ago I was glad to see it. But as soon as I turned my back, darn if it didn't go into hiding again. I have bumped around my little shop a number of times searching for it but to no avail. So, today I made a new one. I remember having to shim the old one to get it square. The new one came out dead on the money. I'll claim that forty years of experience was responsible for that, rather than blind luck. Old-farts in the game are entitled to that. Belt sanders vary enough in design that I won't bother listing any dimensions. I have included enough photos to suggest the jist of it. Anyway, you'll probably want the fence to be longer, or taller, or shaped like an animal for all I know. I sat it on a thin spacer to clear the belt, and it remained there nicely while I put on the clamps. Use the smallest clamps that will work in order not to bump them against the underside edge of the belt. Good luck. ◆ All photos by John Calkin.
Posted on July 1, 2022January 21, 2025 by Dale Phillips Questions: Making Your Own Amp Questions: Making Your Own Amp by Dave Raley Originally published in American Lutherie #73, 2003 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume Seven, 2015 Joe Oliver from cyberspace asks: Do you know of a manufacturer of guitar amp kits? Years ago my father bought me a Heathkit, smug in the knowledge that I would never complete it. I fooled him. I played it through high school and into the local club scene up until 1980 or so; my interests changed and about 1990 I sold it to a friend, who promptly lost it. Now I’m starting to play again and would like to build a bigger and better amp to go with my handmade bass. Of course, there is no kit maker alive anymore, so I’m kind of stuck. I would settle for a good book that catered to nonelectronic-type people. Dave Raley of Laurel Hill, North Carolina responds: Jim Oliver has rattled the cage of a die-hard tube man. I’ve been building and working on them since the early ’50s. I can furnish him a diagram or two if he wants to make up his own kit, transistor or tube. Transistor amps are much simpler to build for a given output power, but you can feed a tube amp into a reflex baffled speaker or a Klipshorn and get more and smoother loudness from 10w than you would from 100w solid state into a closed baffle. Solid state amps, lacking output transformers, handle the back EMF from open baffles poorly. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of the Articles Online featured on our website for Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 3 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. MEMBERS: login for access or contact us to setup your account.
