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A Special Guitar Neck Modification

A Special Guitar Neck Modification

by Ralph Bonte

Originally published in American Lutherie #103, 2010



Last week I was able to make someone very happy. Christophe contacted me through my website, in pursuit of a luthier who could help him with his problem. Four years ago he had an accident while cleaning up the bushes surrounding his house. He was working with a wood chipper and wearing safety gloves. To make a long and painful story short, had he not worn the gloves he would have lost the tip of his left thumb. Due to the gloves, his thumb got caught in the motor of the chipper and was torn out of his hand, causing troubles for the muscles and tendons in his arm. Christophe used to be a recording artist playing the guitar. It took him four years of physical therapy to overcome and adapt to the new situation.

In the past year, the urge to play the guitar again became overwhelming. However, he could no longer play a regular guitar since he lost the support of his left thumb. He tried a prosthesis, but that didn’t work. He found it too awkward. When I read his message, I immediately agreed to do the work, although I did not know how I was going to do it.

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Neck-to-Body Joint

Neck-to-Body Joint

by Garth Fleming

Originally published in Guild of American Luthiers Data Sheet #74, 1978 and Lutherie Woods and Steel String Guitars, 1998

 

This method of joining the neck to the body was discovered by a violinmaker friend and is effective and reasonably easy to cut. It’s basically a straight mortise and tenon joint with an angle (a) added, which gives it a locking effect like a dovetail joint. The sides of the tenon are cut and the angle a is cut. If a tight fit is managed with the female section in the heel block, it makes a reliable joint. ◆

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Mossman Truss Rod Adjustment

Mossman Truss Rod Adjustment

by S.L. Mossman

Originally published as Guild of American Luthier's Data Sheet #263, 1983



Explanation of the Truss Rod and how it Works

The steel rod is laid in at a curve. The curve extends from the first fret and tapers off at the ninth fret. Since the rod is anchored at both ends, when the nut end is tightened it simply shortens the rod by pulling the curve out of the rod and straightening itself, forcing the low part of the rod up and pulling the hight point down, which is the point of least resistance, causing a back bow in the neck.

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Router Jig for Shaping a Neck

Router Jig for Shaping a Neck

by Mike Nealon

Originally published in American Lutherie #62, 2000



This jig is designed to carve a guitar neck with a constant thickness of 5/8" from the nut to about the 10th fret. The shaft of the neck has a circular cross section and is cut so smoothly that only a minimal amount of finish sanding is required. To carve a neck to this shape profile while also tapering the neck width requires that the neck billet be placed at an angle to the axis of rotation, shown schematically in Fig. 1. These particular necks, which I make for thin-body (2 1/4˝) acoustic guitars, are cut to the specifications found on the Martin dreadnought blueprint (except for the taper and the length of the heel). Since the heel is only 2" tall, the router can pass over the top of the heel. The necks are 14.05" long from the nut to the body; the region of constant thickness is 11 1/4" long, leaving 2 3/4" for the curve of the heel.

The jig is made in two parts separately mounted to a base plate: an inclined router table, and a rotation stage. The router table shown in Photo 1 is a wooden box on top of which will be a template to guide the router along a straight line. The rotation stage consists of a long narrow wooden platform, Photo 2, into which will be embedded a steel rod. The rod acts as the axis of rotation and is parallel to the base plate. The top of the rotation stage is tapered at the same angle as the router table. The neck billet is clamped, fretboard surface down, to this platform.

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Adjustable Neck Joints

Adjustable Neck Joints

by Larry Robinson

Originally published as Data Sheet #190, 1981 and Lutherie Woods and Steel String Guitars, 1998



Adjustable neck joints, although not common, are not a new idea. I got a good look at two Howe-Orme guitars from the early 1900s owned by Rick Turner which use this system. Basically, it’s just a pin through the bottom of the heel, acting as a pivot, and two adjustment screws coming out of the body just under the fingerboard. I souped up mine a bit by using all brass parts, putting a brass sleeve through the heel so the wood wouldn’t wear down and a brass plate epoxied/screwed to the back of the heel so the tension wouldn’t warp or crack it. The advantages to this system are multiple, and I haven’t noticed any loss of tone, sustain, or strength.

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