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Novice Notes

Novice Notes

by Donald Curry

Originally published in Guild of American Luthiers Newsletter Vol. 4, #3, 1976



After having read my first two issues of the “Quarterly” and the G.A.L. Internal Affairs bulletin no. 2, I feel there is a need for more positive material and less criticism of everything and everybody. It is to this end that I hope this letter will serve.

First I wish to address the problem of materials. In Vol. 4, No. 2 on page 19, Rick Boling has a poem which suggests a tree planting project. I am in full favor of such a proposal and I think all luthiers whether they be amateur or professional, beginner or master should support such a project. Without doubt a luthier depends on wood of high quality unless you are willing to accept a future populated by instruments with fiberglass bodies, aluminum necks, and made on assembly lines. Remember, trees are a renewable resource.

To meet the more immediate needs of some luthiers, I would like to see a materials exchange program sponsored by the Guild. It would seem that there must be numerous professionals who have, over the years, obtained woods which for one reason or another they feel are not up to par for use in the very fine expensive instruments they make and so discard these pieces when these same woods might be perfectly satisfactory for the beginner who is still experimenting and does not want to invest in fine expensive wood. Those who have such discards, rather than letting it go to waste, could offer it for sale at reasonable prices through the Guild whereby they would be helping the beginner at no loss to themselves.

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Operation: Bootstraps Britain

Operation: Bootstraps Britain

by Theron McClure

Originally published in Guild of American Luthiers Newsletter Vol. 4, #2, 1976



The English luthiers are two years behind in filling their orders from customers. You cannot buy lutes, viols, etc., “off the hook” in London. A choice of harpsichords is limited.

It is not the musical and playing public who caused this short supply of instruments in Britain. It was the luthiers themselves who created and developed the healthy market for instruments. But how?

By playing. Makers of those early-type instruments which are so much easier to learn to play then are the symphonic type, built lutes and viols for themselves taught themselves to play them, and presented concerts which developed audiences and buyers for these musical products.

American luthiers can do the same thing and have the same successes. How will a prospective buyer of an instrument know whether he wants you instrument if he doesn’t hear it demonstrated for him, and he himself can’t play?

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The Luthier’s Library

The Luthier’s Library

by Fred Battershell

Originally published in Guild of American Luthiers Quarterly, Volume 3, #5 & #6, 1975



The Successful Craftsman — Making Your Craft Your Business
by Alex Bealer
Published by Barre Publishing
Distributed by Crown Publishers, New York 288 pp. $9.95

Here is a book that promises a great deal and delivers nothing of lasting value; and in so doing, manages to betray it’s author’s profession: advertising. Yes, fellow luthiers, here is ad executive Alex Bealer telling you how to gain fame and fortune from your chosen craft.

The blurb on the inside jacket cover of this book modestly advises the reader that this book... “answers some very tough questions facing the artist/merchant.” Questions such as how to find suppliers, how to market your product, how to price your wares, and where to work are alleged to be answered completely in this book. They are not.

Like so much of the products produced by the advertising industry, this book is actually a systematic collection of half-truths and some very half-answers.

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Lemon Oil and Carnauba Wax

Lemon Oil and Carnauba Wax

by Jimmie Van

Originally published in Guild of American Luthiers Data Sheet #97, 1978 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume One, 2000



In a living tree the cell walls are saturated with water and pretty much keep their shape. After a tree is cut down and the wood is processed by air drying or kiln drying, most of the water is removed. The wood can shrink up to 20%. This wood is now like a sponge and even a finish like lacquer, varnish, or shellac only slows the rate of moisture absorption or loss. Thus, over time, the cells lose part of their ability to remain at or return to the size that you had originally intended. We see the results in swelling, shrinking, and cracking. Using pure lemon oil as a cleaner and carnauba wax as a sealer can further protect woods and slow down the changes on finished instruments.

It is important to start with lemon oil that you know is pure. Most products sold as lemon oil contain considerable amounts of petroleum distillates and synthetics. Avoid these. You may be able to locate lemon oil through an essential oils store or a store carrying natural products (if it’s food quality, it’s probably the right stuff). First I make sure that the surface of the guitar or other wood instrument is free of old wax by using a mild wax remover. (The lemon oil will dissolve previous coats of carnauba wax.) I keep a soft, oil-moistened cloth in a sealable glass jar to keep it from evaporating between instruments. With this cloth I spread a coat of lemon oil over the entire instrument, letting it stand for fifteen to forty-five minutes or until most of the oil has been absorbed. Wipe any remaining oil off after this time as the wood will only take in what it needs. Pure lemon oil will not harm acetate or celluloid, but it can damage styrene. This can be a problem on some cheap instruments. Although pure lemon oil does not harm most finishes, I recommend caution, especially around stains. Lemon oil is also good for removing rosin buildup on violins, cleaning strings, and bringing up the sheen of finished or unfinished mother-of-pearl.

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Heat Pressing Necks

Heat Pressing Necks

by Tim Olsen

Originally published in Guild of American Luthiers Data Sheet #86, 1978 and Lutherie Woods and Steel String Guitars, 1998



Heat pressing a neck to improve the playing action is a rather simple process both in theory and practice. Basically, the procedure involves heating the neck to soften the wood resins and the fretboard-to-neck glue joint. Then the neck is held in the desired position until it is thoroughly cooled and the glue and resins are hardened again. I will assume that you know what neck shape you’re shooting for, although this is a subject of much subtlety and debate.

The heat pressing setup that I used for several years consisted of one 250W Sears infrared bulb (red), a porcelain socket on a clip base, two C-clamps, several 1/4" leather pads, and the edge of my bench.

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