Posted on February 13, 2023March 5, 2024 by Dale Phillips Flamenco Capo Flamenco Capo by D. Alfieri Originally published in Guild of American Luthiers Data Sheet #46, 1977 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie, Volume Two, 2001 Start with a block of ebony 2 1/2" × 1/2" × 1/2". With a jigsaw, rasp, and sandpaper, cut out and shape (see drawing). Drill a hole through the center of the block and taper with an appropriate-sized reamer to match a violin peg. The size of the peg should relate aesthetically to the guitar. Drill a 1/16" hole at a 115° angle on one arm. Notch the arms as shown with a fine file. Inlay is optional. A bit of holly veneer dyed red with a red nylon string is a simple, but nice touch. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of our premium web content offered to Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 4 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. If you are already a member, login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on December 8, 2022March 5, 2024 by Dale Phillips Electronic Answer Man, Part 1 Electronic Answer Man, Part 1 by Rick Turner Originally published in American Lutherie #29–31 and #33–36, 1992 and 1993 Electronic Answer Man, Part 2 by Rick Turner (can be seen in Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume 4) Can you explain pickup phase and polarity? How does coil polarity relate to hum and humbucking? I have heard that it is possible to achieve hum canceling in a Strat. How is this done? Let’s start by trying to understand the basics of “absolute phase.” The easiest example is not a guitar, but rather a drum. Imagine putting a mike in front of a bass drum, running the mike through a mixer, power amp, and finally a set of loudspeakers. As the drum is struck, the drumhead first moves forward, then back. The first cycle of a sonic wave consisting of first pressurized, then rarefied air moves out from the drum head and intercepts the mike. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of our premium web content offered to Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 4 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. If you are already a member, login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on August 1, 2022May 19, 2025 by Dale Phillips Potassium Dichromate, Oxalic Acid, and Carnauba Wax Potassium Dichromate, Oxalic Acid, and Carnauba Wax by Jeffrey R. Elliott Originally published in Guild of American Luthiers Data Sheet #52, and #55, 1977 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie, Volume One, 2000 Potassium dichromate. European luthiers commonly use potassium dichromate to give that nice, brown “aged” look to lighter, newer woods. It can be used by itself or mixed with aniline dyes for additional color tints. Primarily it has been used to darken the interiors of violin-family instruments, although I know of many who have used it on the exterior to darken spruce and maple. I have used it both inside and out to create a “naturally aged” looking wood on guitars. Potassium dichromate is a chemical activated by light from the sun, sunlamp, or infrared lamp, but direct, natural, full-spectrum sunlight is best. Beware: Indirect light will not activate it, and the solution will tend to color the wood a murky green. The solution is rather weak — two tablespoons to one gallon of water. It can be applied by brushing or by wiping it on with a cloth (wear gloves). Although I have never tried it, I imagine a spray method would work as well. Whichever method is used, a light, even coat is recommended. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of our premium web content offered to Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 4 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. If you are already a member, login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on August 1, 2022May 20, 2025 by Dale Phillips Curved Panel Templates Curved Panel Templates by Reagan Cole Originally published in Guild of American Luthiers Data Sheet #80, 1978 Many instrument makers prefer to build guitars, mandolins and the like with pronounced curvature to the back panel(s). The most common method of fabricating a “vaulted” back is to work from a solid plug mold which must be carved and shaped to very exacting standards to produce acceptable results. The plug mold is in fact the best answer when one is building a number of identical instruments. The drafting technique I shall describe is a workable alternative for “one-off” projects or as an aid in visualizing three dimensional forms. Begin by making a full scale orthographic drawing of the intended form. This will show the back and side views, but it is not directly useful in determining the dimensions of thin wood (or other material) to be used in the construction. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of our premium web content offered to Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 4 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. If you are already a member, login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on August 1, 2022May 20, 2025 by Dale Phillips Spray Gun Agitator Spray Gun Agitator by Jimmie Van Originally published in Guild of American Luthiers Data Sheet #91, 1978 A new product that I found to be most helpful when spraying a finish or other things that had to be in complete suspension to assure uniform coverage, is a agitator siphon cup assemble sold by N.A.P.A. auto part stores. This cup will work on most major brand guns. The 1 quart cup provides constant agitation from air right off of the same line that your gun works off of, no extra line is needed. You can control the mixing speeds of the agitator, and does not require an extra cleaning. The part number you need to ask for is model 70-707. This may be of big help to those of you who do a lot of finishing work. ◆
