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Questions: Thickness Measuring Tool

Questions: Thickness Measuring Tool

by Tom Nelligan and R.M. Mottola

Originally published in American Lutherie #92, 2007



Georges E. Vougioukalakis from Athens, Greece asks:

In my experimentation and research on double-top guitar construction I find a need for an instrument that can measure the thickness of the outermost skin of the top on a fully assembled instrument without damaging the top. Does anyone know of such a tool? I remember a citation of an instrument that was used to measure the thickness of the paint in autos.


Tom Nelligan from Olympus NDT/Panametrics-NDT Products in Waltham, Massachusetts replies:

Commercial ultrasonic thickness gauges of the sort made by my company (and our competitors) for measurement of industrial engineering materials like metals, plastics, and ceramics will not work on wood, because wood does not efficiently transmit sound waves at ultrasonic frequencies in the MHz range. Pulse/echo ultrasonic gauging is based on very precisely measuring the round-trip transit time of a short pulse of very high frequency sound waves through the test piece. But the high frequency/short wavelength wave front is scattered by the microstructure of the wood, so it is not possible to get the necessary clean echo from the inner wall.

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Dulcimer Gluing Jig

Dulcimer Gluing Jig

by Tony Pizzo

Originally published in Guild of American Luthiers Data Sheet #70, 1978 and Lutherie Tools, 1990



This is a fairly easy-to-make jig for gluing dulcimer sides to bottoms, end blocks, and scrolls. It is adjustable in three planes (length, width, and with minor changes, depth) and adjustments can be made to adapt it for gluing psalteries, scheitholts, or any other type of non-necked chordophone.

The jig consists of a sheet of 1/2" plywood fitted with movable dowels running along a series of parallel channels. Shafts of 1/4" threaded rod running through the dowel centers allow the dowels to be tightened in a prearranged pattern. Angle iron brackets which rest on the top of the dowels can be tightened down to hold the sides down against the bottom during gluing while at the same time ensuring that the sides are held in the pattern already set for them.

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Questions: Industry Pricing Standards

Questions: Industry Pricing Standards

by Dana Bourgeois, Mark Campellone, and John Greven

Originally published in American Lutherie #92, 2007



Noel B. from the Internet asks:

Could you give me any insight into pricing standards in the industry? One of our retailers says that they get 40% margin on instruments from all their smaller builders, i.e., they get $400 on a $1000 retail banjo and the builder gets $600. Once you deduct the cost of materials it appears the retailer is turning a better profit than the builder. Is this the industry standard? Until recently they were content with a smaller margin.


Dana Bourgeois from Lewiston Maine replies:

The retail pricing structure varies, and is negotiable between builder and retailer. The most common wholesale discounts are 50% (“A” discount), 40% (“B” discount), and 25% (“C” discount). In the case of the “A” discount, the retailer usually sells the product at a considerable discount from the suggested list price. For example, a guitar wholesaled at 50% and retailed at a 25% discount off list price would yield a gross margin of 25%. A guitar wholesaled at a “B” discount is usually sold at a lower retail discount than that of an “A” discount guitar. In the case of a “C” discount, the guitar is usually sold at full list price. The “C” discount structure is usually used between individual builders and retailers. In this case, the retailer and builder can offer the same guitar to the same customer at the same price.

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Questions: Industry Pricing Standards

by Dana Bourgeois, Mark Campellone, and John Greven

Originally published in American Lutherie #92, 2007



Noel B. from the Internet asks:

Could you give me any insight into pricing standards in the industry? One of our retailers says that they get 40% margin on instruments from all their smaller builders, i.e., they get $400 on a $1000 retail banjo and the builder gets $600. Once you deduct the cost of materials it appears the retailer is turning a better profit than the builder. Is this the industry standard? Until recently they were content with a smaller margin.


Dana Bourgeois from Lewiston Maine replies:

The retail pricing structure varies, and is negotiable between builder and retailer. The most common wholesale discounts are 50% (“A” discount), 40% (“B” discount), and 25% (“C” discount). In the case of the “A” discount, the retailer usually sells the product at a considerable discount from the suggested list price. For example, a guitar wholesaled at 50% and retailed at a 25% discount off list price would yield a gross margin of 25%. A guitar wholesaled at a “B” discount is usually sold at a lower retail discount than that of an “A” discount guitar. In the case of a “C” discount, the guitar is usually sold at full list price. The “C” discount structure is usually used between individual builders and retailers. In this case, the retailer and builder can offer the same guitar to the same customer at the same price.

In order to cover the cost of overhead and also realize a profit, most average-sized dealers need to make a gross margin of between 25% and 30%. This calculation assumes turnover within around 60 days. If the dealer thinks he can’t make a sale within that time frame he may need to realize a greater gross margin, or choose to invest his money in other brands. If turnover needs to be proven to the dealer, it may make sense to sell a first guitar on consignment, then negotiate a future wholesale arrangement.


Mark Campellone from Greenville Rhode Island
replies:

Because independent builders produce instruments in far smaller numbers than large-scale manufacturers, a standard discount rate of 40% to 60% isn’t practical. Builders like myself usually discount at a rate about half that of the manufacturer’s standard. Of course, most dealers are more inclined to invest in a builder who already has an established reputation. For those who are not yet well established, offering instruments to dealers on consignment, at least initially, can be a good option.


John Greven from Portland Oregon
replies:

Traditionally dealers paid the makers of guitars half of the retail price plus shipping costs. This was true for Martin, Gibson, and others from their earliest days of production. Martin never did any “incentive discounting” to their dealers and, to my knowledge, still does not. Gibson had a “floor plan” sales scheme for decades whereby dealers had to take a minimum number of instruments in order to qualify as a dealer and get the specific models they really wanted to sell in their market. This system assured that Gibson could move targeted numbers of all of their various models and keep production steady. Gibson did, however, discount an addition 5%–10% if overall sales were slow or they had excess inventory of a particular model, but for the most part it was the usual 50% discount to dealers.

Then came handmade guitars gradually infiltrating what had been a locked-down, manufacturer-only market. Individual makers had to set their prices with very different issues involved. They did not have the advantage of large scale production in reducing material and time costs, but they also did not have the high overhead. From the 1960s through the mid-1980s, most individual builders (and there were only a handful of us then) sold direct to the consumer with no discounting. Others, me included, sold both direct and through a small network of exclusive dealers. The standard dealer discount for us was 40%. This is now certainly not uniformly true. I know a number of makers doing only 15%–20% if the market will bear it.

Today, with the plethora of large and small guitar dealers around the globe, discounting is all over the map; from none at all for the top makers on down to the 40%–50% builders. It is a combination of what the market will bear and what the builder needs to have to make a living and continue in business.

I still have a small number of dealers around the world and domestically, and I still offer them a decent discount. The bulk of my production is divided about evenly between wholesale and retail and I like it that way. I always have plenty of work and a steady, dependable income stream, even in “hard times” when the market goes soft. The only way I was able to survive the steep recession and near market collapse of 1982-3 was through sales of my guitars in Japan. Even though I made less money overall, I was able to stay in business and continue to work. A number of hand builders at that time went back to their day jobs to survive.

While the dealer seems to make more money than the maker at the 40% discount, bear in mind that the dealer is taking care of your marketing and sales and all of the potential hassles that can follow a sale. As a maker, you do not have to deal with any of those aspects directly, and you can better manage your cash flow.

For established makers with a good reputation and long track record, direct sales are the way to go. For new makers trying to find a niche, dealers make better sense until your market is better established. The goal is to build what you love and sell what you build. If dealers can make the difference between success and failure for your business, they’ve earned their markup.

Over the decades, I have enjoyed working both with my dealers and individual customers. They are like family now. Some of my dealers go all the way back to 1975. The combination of dealer/individual sales has allowed me to make and sell over 2000 of my guitars over a forty-three year period. I could not have accomplished this without them. They have provided me with a continuing education and kept me in touch with the subtle changes in the market on a global basis. It is a good, working system for me and (the good news is) the costs are all deductible! ◆

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Questions: Crownless Frets

Questions: Crownless Frets

by James Westbrook and R.M. Mottola

Originally published in American Lutherie #89, 2007

 

Gilles Danis from the Internet asks:

I have been asked by a museum to restore an old guitar. It is a rather cheaply made thing from the early 20th century. The frets do not have crowns. They are just thin flat bars on their sides with barbs at the bottom. Do you know of a source for such fretwire?


James Westbrook from England
replies:

I get my bar fret stock from Makoto Tsuruta in Japan. I think there are a few different sizes. His website is www.crane.gr.jp., and his e-mail address is mmm@st.rim.or.jp.


The Questions Column editor
adds:

Nickel-alloy sheets of various thicknesses and alloy composition are available from McMaster Carr (www.mcmaster.com) but they need to be cut into strips for use as bar frets. Sheet metal places or machine shops that have shears can do this cheaply. ◆

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String Spacing

String Spacing

by Sylvan Wells

Originally published as Guild of American Luthiers Data Sheet #103, 1979



After reviewing most, if not all books on guitar construction I realized that there was no proper spacing for cutting slots for strings in the nut or laying out centers in order to drill the holes for bridge pins.

It really is quite simple and I’ll explain the method and then conclude it with the mathematics already completed in an easy to use table.

First, it is essential to understand that although you are placing six points you are really dealing with 5 spacings (Space between strings, 1–2, 2–3, 3–4, 4–5, 5–6). The distance for those 6 spacings is determined by the distance desired from the centers of the outside holes (E & E or 1 & 6). For the bridges, the distance is the same as the width of the neck at the 12th fret. That distance centered on the bridge blank are the center points for holes 1 & 6.

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