Posted on June 13, 2024January 22, 2025 by Dale Phillips Violin Bridge Holder Violin Bridge Holder by Alan Carruth Originally published in American Lutherie #7, 1986 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume One, 2000 Thanks to George Manno for some feedback on his experience with bridge tuning. Bridges on good violins do tend to be quite similar, but I still like to work them up individually. And he is certainly right about fitting the feet! One dimension he seems to have left out is the thickness of the feet at the bottom of the bridge, generally given as 4.5MM (3/16"). If this is too heavy it can make the instrument sound “closed.” If you don’t want to thin it anymore a bit of wood can be removed from the end of the leg without affecting the stiffness too much. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of our premium web content offered to Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 4 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. If you are already a member, login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on June 6, 2024January 15, 2025 by Dale Phillips Questions: Stainless Steel Rusting Properties Questions: Stainless Steel Rusting Properties by Peter Dyer Originally published in American Lutherie #58, 1999 Peter Dyer of Winters, CA has perhaps the last word on the subject of stainless steel and its rusting properties and the Universal Side Bender: The Metals Handbook, Desk Edition, published by the American Society for Metals (6th printing, 1991) says, “In atmospheres free from chloride contamination, stainless steels have excellent corrosion resistance. Types 430, 302, 304, and 316 normally do not show even superficial rust. Some rusting may occur in marine atmospheres or in industrial exposure where surfaces become contaminated with chloride salts.” So, if you’re building guitars and using 302 or 304 stainless on the Universal Side Bender, absent the conditions described above, don’t worry about rust. I hope that this resolves any confusion generated by the seemingly contradictory statements earlier. ◆
Posted on June 6, 2024January 16, 2025 by Dale Phillips Questions: French Polish VS Olive Oil Questions: French Polish VS Olive Oil by Gary Southwell and Koen Padding Originally published in American Lutherie #97, 2009 Stuart Mewburn from London, England asks: A recent request for an instrument finished with olive oil prompted me to do an experiment. I took two pieces of European spruce, the same size, oil finished one and French polished the other. I used virgin olive oil, applying one layer a day with a cloth and finished the next morning with Micro-mesh. Over fifteen days it built up a lustrous finish. Over the same time I applied thirty layers of French polish to the second piece of spruce. The oiled spruce (fifteen layers) weighed 2g more than the bare wood. The French polished spruce (thirty layers) weighed 1g more than the bare wood. If these figures are multiplied up to the size of the lower bout it means that the oiled top adds 33.2g to the weight of the working part of the top and the French polish adds 16.2g. When you consider that a bridge weighs about 19g–20g that’s a significant increase in weight for the strings to drive. The experiment begs a couple of questions. Has anyone done similar tests for other guitar finishes? To what extent does the mass of the finish affect the tone of the instrument? And as an aside, how well will a finish like olive oil hold up? Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of our premium web content offered to Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 4 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. If you are already a member, login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on June 6, 2024January 15, 2025 by Dale Phillips Accelerator for Superglue and More Accelerator for Superglue and More by Chris Pile Originally published in American Lutherie #10, 1987 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume One, 2000 I would like to inform fellow members of recent developments in the cyanoacrylate area of my repair business. The makers of Jet have added two new products to their line which have quickly become indispensable in the completion of my daily work. The old, reliable Jet and Super-Jet have been joined by Slo-Jet and Jet-Set. If you remember, Jet is the familiar thin, quick-setting superglue, and Super-Jet is thicker and slower to dry. Slo-Jet is even thicker and much slower to dry, consequently filling gaps and holes even better than was previously possible. As a matter of fact, it dries so slowly I’ve no idea how long it would take to cure if I wasn’t using the other new product — Jet-Set. Become A Member to Continue Reading This Article This article is part of our premium web content offered to Guild members. To view this and other web articles, join the Guild of American Luthiers. Members also receive 4 annual issues of American Lutherie and get discounts on products. For details, visit the membership page. If you are already a member, login for access or contact us to setup your account.
Posted on June 6, 2024January 16, 2025 by Dale Phillips Questions: Power Buffer For Finish Questions: Power Buffer For Finish by Charles Fox Originally published in American Lutherie #79, 2004 and Big Red Book of American Lutherie Volume Seven, 2015 See also, Questions: Post Buffing Finish Scratches by Brian Boedigheimer Mario from cyberspace asks: I use a power buffer to rub out my finish. It looks perfect to me at the time, but sometimes in other light I can see little tiny scratches that I’ve missed. Any advice? Charles Fox of Portland, Oregon responds: That reminds me of when I brought instruments to my first music trade show a few decades ago. Under the unforgiving glare of the convention center’s halogen lights I was appalled to see that the guitars, which I thought were perfectly finished, were in fact covered with tiny scratches that hadn’t been visible to me under either tungsten, fluorescent, or natural sun light. Now I do all of my finish work beneath halogen work lights. You can get an excellent ceiling shop light with double halogen lamps (part # 73995) from www.Rockler.com for $34.99. ◆
